2023 Chevrolet Suburban — Fuse Box Diagram & Amp Ratings

Quick answer

The 2023 Chevrolet Suburban has three primary fuse/relay centers:

• Engine compartment fuse block: driver-side front of the engine bay under a rectangular cover.
• Instrument panel (I/P) fuse block: driver’s side end of the dash behind the snap-off access panel (door open to access).
• Rear compartment fuse block: left rear cargo trim panel (behind the removable access door; fold the rear load floor to reach).

Notes

• Layouts vary slightly by trim (LS/LT/RST/Z71/Premier/High Country), engine, and options (trailering, rear HVAC, power liftgate, 120V inverter). The assignments shown reflect the most common 2021–2023 Suburban/Tahoe configuration. Always verify against the printed legend on your fuse box lid.
• Fuse colors: 5A tan, 7.5A brown, 10A red, 15A blue, 20A yellow, 25A clear, 30A green. Larger J‑case/maxi fuses commonly 30A green, 40A orange, 50A red, 60A yellow.

Engine compartment fuse block (under hood)

Typical under‑hood powertrain/lighting/ABS feeds. Common fuses and relays below (check the lid legend for exact numbering on your SUV).

Common relays in the under‑hood block

• R1 Starter Relay (STRTR)
• R2 A/C Compressor Clutch Relay (if equipped as discrete relay)
• R3 Cooling Fan Relays (Fan 1/Fan 2)
• R4 Headlamp High/Low Relays (varies; many functions are BCM‑driven solid state)
• Note: The fuel pump on late‑model GM SUVs is controlled by a Fuel Pump Control Module; there may not be a traditional standalone “fuel pump relay.”

Instrument panel fuse block (driver dash end panel)

This block feeds interior electronics, controls, and several lighting circuits.

Common relays in the I/P block

• R1 RAP (Retained Accessory Power) Relay — keeps radio/windows alive briefly after key‑off
• R2 Run/Crank (IGN) Relay — interior ignition feed
• Many lighting and body functions are solid‑state via the BCM rather than discrete relays.

Rear compartment fuse block (left cargo panel)

Supports trailering, rear HVAC, liftgate, audio amp, rear window defogger, and rear outlets.

Common relays in the rear block

• R1 Rear Defogger Relay
• R2 Liftgate/Liftglass Relay
• R3 Rear Blower Relay (if not solid‑state)
• R4 Trailer Park Lamp Relay (varies by trailering package)

Verification reminder: Some trims move trailering feeds to the under‑hood block as J‑case fuses. Always confirm with the legend on the cover.

How to test a fuse

• Visual check: Pull the suspect fuse with a puller/needle‑nose pliers. If the metal element is melted/broken, replace it with the same amperage and color.
• Test light method: With the circuit powered (ignition on or lights on, as appropriate), probe both test tabs on top of the fuse. A good fuse lights the test light on both tabs; power on only one tab indicates a blown fuse.
• Multimeter method: With ignition off, pull the fuse and measure continuity across the two blades. 0–1 ohm indicates good; OL/infinite indicates blown. Or, with the fuse installed, check for voltage on both test tabs.
• If a replacement blows immediately, stop. You likely have a shorted wire/component. Diagnose before upsizing a fuse—never install a higher‑amp fuse.

Common blown fuses on this vehicle (what to check first)

• 12V power outlets (F1/F2 in I/P; F11 in rear): Phone chargers and inverters often short. Inspect the outlet shell for coins/debris, and test with a known‑good charger. Replace with the same 20A fuse only.
• Trailer lighting (F3–F6 in rear): If trailer lamps are out or a fuse pops when connecting a trailer, look for corroded 7‑pin connectors, pinched trailer wiring at the tongue, or wrong‑wattage bulbs. Unplug the trailer and recheck the SUV’s fuses before condemning the vehicle.
• Headlamps (F12–F15 under hood): One side out with a good bulb often traces to the individual left/right headlamp fuse. If multiple exterior lamps act up, scan the BCM for codes and verify grounds at the core support.
• Fuel pump/ECM (F31/F51/F60 under hood): A crank‑no‑start with no pump prime sound? Check these first. Also verify the fuel pump control module ground and the under‑body harness near the tank.
• HVAC blower (J5 under hood for front, F7 rear): Blower inop on all speeds commonly points to a blown high‑current feed or failed blower module. If the fuse pops again, inspect the blower motor for over‑current draw.
• ABS (J3/J4 under hood, F72 micro): ABS/Brake lights on with multiple codes may follow a blown logic or pump feed; also check the front hub wiring and chassis grounds.
• A/C clutch (F18 under hood): If the clutch never engages but pressures and commands look good, verify this fuse and the A/C relay cavity for corrosion.

Final tip: GM used multiple fuse layouts across packages. Use the lid diagram and your VIN‑specific service info to confirm exact cavities before moving fuses around.

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