2019 Chevrolet Silverado 1500: Serpentine Belt Guide

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2019 Chevrolet Silverado 1500: Serpentine Belt Guide

A complete reference for serpentine belt part numbers, routing, and replacement for the 2019 Chevrolet Silverado 1500.

Note: The 2019 Silverado 1500 was available with several engine options (including the 4.3L V6, 5.3L V8, 6.2L V8, and 2.7L Turbo I4). Part numbers and belt routing vary significantly between these engines. The information below is primarily for the common 5.3L V8 L84 engine, but you must verify the correct part numbers for your specific vehicle and engine configuration before purchasing parts.

Quick Answer

• Belt Length & Rib Count (5.3L V8): Approximately 94.5 inches; 6-rib design
• OEM Main Belt PN (5.3L V8): GM 12685918
• Aftermarket Belt Cross-References (5.3L V8):
  • Gates K060945
  • Dayco 5060945
  • Continental Elite 4060945
• Automatic Tensioner Assembly PN (5.3L V8): GM 12670921
• Idler Pulley PN (5.3L V8): GM 12626055 (Verify position, as there may be multiple)

Belt Routing

Before you remove the old belt, we strongly recommend taking a clear photograph or drawing a diagram of the belt's path. This will be your most valuable reference.

For most 5.3L V8 applications, the belt follows this general path:

1. Begin at the crankshaft pulley (the large, main pulley at the bottom of the engine).
2. The grooved side of the belt wraps around the A/C compressor.
3. The belt then routes up to an idler pulley.
4. From the idler, it wraps over the alternator.
5. Next, it goes down to the power steering pump.
6. The back (smooth) side of the belt then contacts the water pump pulley.
7. Finally, the belt routes through the automatic tensioner before returning to the crankshaft pulley.

Your exact routing may vary slightly based on options. Always trust your photo or the under-hood diagram if one is present.

How to Replace the Serpentine Belt

Replacing the belt is a straightforward task with the right tool. You will need a serpentine belt tool or a long-handled 3/8" drive breaker bar.

1. Locate the Tensioner: Find the automatic belt tensioner. It's the component with a pulley that is mounted on a spring-loaded arm.
2. Release Tension: Insert the square drive of your breaker bar or serpentine belt tool into the designated square hole on the tensioner arm. Rotate the tensioner (typically clockwise on these GM V8s) to release the tension on the belt. The arm will move against its spring pressure.
3. Remove the Old Belt: While holding the tensioner in the released position, carefully slide the old belt off a smooth, easily accessible pulley, like the water pump or idler pulley.
4. Slowly Release the Tensioner: Once the belt is free, slowly and carefully allow the tensioner arm to return to its resting position.
5. Install the New Belt: Following your photo or diagram, route the new belt around all pulleys, leaving one of the smooth, easy-access pulleys for last. Double-check that the belt's ribs are correctly seated in the grooves of every grooved pulley.
6. Final Fitment: Release the tensioner again and slip the belt over the final pulley. Slowly release the tensioner, allowing it to apply pressure to the new belt. Visually inspect the entire system to ensure the belt is centered and properly routed on all components.

Replacement Interval

Modern EPDM (Ethylene Propylene Diene Monomer) belts are highly durable. While there isn't a strict mileage-based replacement mandate from Chevrolet, it is best practice to inspect the belt at every oil change. As a form of preventative maintenance, we recommend replacing the serpentine belt and considering a new tensioner every 75,000 to 100,000 miles.

Signs of a Failing Belt or Tensioner

Listen to and look at your system for these common signs of wear:

• Squealing or Chirping: This is the most common symptom, often worse on cold starts or when the A/C is running. It indicates a slipping belt, which could be due to wear, fluid contamination, or a weak tensioner.
• Visible Wear: Inspect the belt for cracks, fraying, glazing (a shiny, smooth appearance on the belt's surface), or missing ribs.
• Tensioner Noise: A grinding, humming, or rattling sound from the engine bay that changes with engine RPM often points to a failing bearing in the tensioner or an idler pulley.
• Bouncing Tensioner Arm: If you see the tensioner arm vibrating or jumping erratically while the engine is running, the internal spring mechanism is likely worn out and failing to provide consistent tension.

If you're not comfortable performing this service yourself, don't hesitate to find a trusted shop on Repairius. ""