2024 GMC Sierra 1500 Fuse Box Diagram & Amperage Guide

As an ASE-certified master technician, I know that modern trucks like the 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 rely heavily on complex electrical systems. Whether you are dealing with a dead infotainment screen, a trailer brake fault, or a truck that simply won't start, checking the fuses is always your first line of diagnostic defense.

This guide provides a comprehensive overview of the fuse box locations, amperage ratings, and circuit diagrams for the 2024 GMC Sierra 1500. Keep in mind that exact fuse assignments can vary slightly depending on your engine (2.7L Turbo, 5.3L V8, 6.2L V8, or 3.0L Duramax) and trim level (Pro, SLE, SLT, AT4, Denali). Always verify with the printed legend on the inside of your fuse box lid before replacing a fuse.

Quick Answer: Fuse Box Locations

The 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 has two primary fuse box locations:

1. Engine Compartment Fuse Block: Located under the hood on the passenger side, near the battery.
2. Instrument Panel Fuse Block: Located inside the cabin on the passenger side (right side) of the dashboard, behind a removable plastic access cover when you open the passenger door.

Note: There is no trunk/cargo fuse box on the Sierra 1500 pickup truck.

Engine Compartment Fuse Block

The under-hood fuse box houses the high-amperage fuses and critical powertrain relays, including the ECM, fuel pump, ABS, and trailer lighting circuits. To access it, release the clips holding the plastic cover on the passenger side of the engine bay.

Note: J-case fuses are box-shaped, larger fuses used for higher amperage circuits. Standard mini/micro fuses are used for lower amp ratings.

Instrument Panel Fuse Block

The interior fuse block is located on the right side of the passenger dashboard. You will need to open the passenger door and pry off the side dash trim panel using a plastic trim tool to access it. This panel controls interior accessories, infotainment, airbags, and cabin lighting.

How to Test a Fuse

Before throwing parts at an electrical problem, properly testing a fuse is essential. Visually inspecting a fuse isn't always reliable, as micro-fractures in the fuse element can be hard to see.

Here is the professional method to test a fuse:

1. Set your Digital Multimeter (DMM): Turn your multimeter to the DC Voltage setting (20V scale).
2. Turn the ignition ON: Do not start the engine, but turn the key (or push the button) to the "ON/RUN" position so that circuits are powered.
3. Ground the black lead: Place the black probe of your multimeter on a good, clean bare metal chassis ground.
4. Probe the fuse test points: Every automotive blade fuse has two tiny exposed metal test points on the top. Touch the red probe to the left test point, then the right test point.
5. Read the voltage:
   • If you see ~12V on both sides, the fuse is good.
   • If you see ~12V on one side and 0V on the other, the fuse is blown.
   • If you see 0V on both sides, the circuit is not currently being powered (the switch might be off, or a relay upstream is bad).

You can also use a simple 12V test light connected to ground to do this quickly—if the light illuminates on both test points, the fuse is good!

Common Blown Fuses on this Vehicle

As a technician, I frequently see a few specific circuits blow on late-model GM trucks:

• Trailer Lighting Fuses (Under-hood F50 & Trailer Brake F38): GMC Sierra trucks are built to tow, but poorly wired trailers are notorious for causing shorts. If you lose trailer lights or trailer brake control, check these fuses immediately. What to check first: Inspect the 7-pin connector on your bumper for corrosion and check the trailer's wiring harness for frayed wires.
• 12V Accessory / Cigar Lighter Fuse (Dash F10): Dropping a penny into the 12V socket or plugging in a faulty, cheap phone charger will instantly pop this 20-amp fuse. What to check first: Look inside the 12V socket with a flashlight for debris before replacing the fuse.
• Fuel Pump / FSCM Fuse (Under-hood F09): If your truck cranks strong but refuses to start, the fuel pump fuse is a prime suspect. What to check first: If this blows repeatedly, you may have a failing fuel pump drawing excessive amperage, or a chafed wire near the fuel tank sending unit.

Remember, a blown fuse is the symptom, not the cause. Fuses blow to protect the wiring from melting and causing a fire due to excessive current. If a replaced fuse blows again instantly, stop and trace the circuit for a short to ground.

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