2016 GMC Sierra 2500HD Fuse Box Diagram & Amperage

Quick Answer

The 2016 GMC Sierra 2500HD features three main fuse box locations:

• Under-hood Fuse Block: Located in the engine compartment, typically on the driver's side near the battery.
• Instrument Panel Fuse Block: Found inside the cabin, usually on the driver's side kick panel.
• Rear Under-seat/Trunk Fuse Block (if equipped): Located under the rear seat or in the cargo area, primarily for rear accessories and trailer equipment.

Under-hood Fuse Block

The under-hood fuse block is the primary power distribution center for many critical engine and chassis components. It also houses many relays.

Common Under-hood Relays:

• RUN/CRANK Relay: Powers various systems during ignition ON and cranking.
• Fuel Pump Relay: Controls power to the fuel pump.
• Starter Relay: Energizes the starter solenoid.
• Headlamp Relays (Low/High Beam): Control power to the headlamps.
• Fog Lamp Relay: Controls power to the fog lamps.
• A/C Clutch Relay: Engages the A/C compressor clutch.
• Cooling Fan Relays: Control the engine cooling fans.

Instrument Panel Fuse Block

This fuse block primarily handles interior accessories, lighting, and convenience features. It is typically located on the driver's side, behind a removable panel on the kick panel or dashboard side.

Rear Under-seat/Trunk Fuse Block (if equipped)

Some 2500HD models, especially those with advanced towing packages or numerous rear accessories, may have an additional fuse block located under the rear seat or in the cargo area. This block often handles trailer-related circuits, rear power points, and other convenience features.

Note: Fuse locations and amperages can vary slightly depending on the specific trim level, options, and engine installed in your 2016 GMC Sierra 2500HD. Always consult the fuse legend printed on the inside of your fuse box cover or your vehicle's owner's manual for the most accurate information for your specific truck.

How to Test a Fuse

Testing a fuse is a straightforward process and can save you time and money before taking your truck to a shop. Here's how:

1. Safety First: Ensure the ignition is OFF and remove the negative battery cable if you are working near the under-hood fuse block for extended periods.
2. Locate the Fuse: Refer to your owner's manual or the fuse box lid diagram to identify the suspected fuse.
3. Visual Inspection: Pull the fuse straight out using a fuse puller (usually found in the fuse box or tool kit). Hold it up to the light. If the metal wire or strip inside is broken or burnt, the fuse is blown and needs replacement.
4. Using a Multimeter (for non-obvious breaks):
   • Set your multimeter to the continuity setting (usually indicated by a symbol that looks like a sound wave or a diode symbol with an audible beep).
   • Touch the probes to the two metal test points on top of the fuse.
   • If the multimeter beeps or shows a reading close to zero ohms, the fuse is good. If it shows "OL" (open loop) or no reading, the fuse is blown.
5. Replace with Correct Fuse: Always replace a blown fuse with a new fuse of the exact same amperage (A) and type. Using a fuse with a higher amperage can lead to serious electrical damage or fire.

Common Blown Fuses on This Vehicle

While any fuse can blow, some are more prone to failure due to the high-demand circuits they protect or common accessory issues:

• Cigar Lighter/12V Outlets (Under-hood F26, Dash F2, Rear F4): These fuses are frequently blown by overloads from chargers, portable refrigerators, or other accessories drawing too much current.
  • What to check first: Disconnect all accessories from the outlets before replacing the fuse. If it blows again immediately, there might be a short in an accessory or the outlet wiring itself.
• Trailer Brake Controller / Trailer Power (Under-hood F15, F16, Rear F2, F3): Issues with trailer wiring, short circuits in a trailer, or improper connections can easily blow these fuses.
  • What to check first: Inspect trailer wiring for damage, ensure proper grounding, and test the trailer's electrical system independently if possible. Avoid plugging in a known faulty trailer.
• Blower Motor (Under-hood F13): A failing blower motor, a clogged cabin air filter causing the motor to work harder, or a short in the blower motor resistor can cause this fuse to blow.
  • What to check first: Check for any debris obstructing the blower fan. If the motor makes unusual noises, it might be failing. A common symptom of a bad resistor is only having one or two fan speeds working.
• Headlights (Under-hood F5, F6, F7, F8): While less common, a short in the headlight assembly or wiring, or even a faulty bulb (especially aftermarket HID/LED conversions), can pop these fuses.
  • What to check first: Inspect the headlight bulb wiring for any signs of damage or shorting. If you've recently installed aftermarket lights, verify they are compatible and correctly wired.
• Radio/Infotainment (Under-hood F27, Dash F1, F12): Problems with the radio unit itself, aftermarket installations, or a short in the speaker wiring can cause these fuses to blow.
  • What to check first: Disconnect any aftermarket components. If the radio works intermittently before failing, the unit itself might be faulty. A visual inspection of the wiring behind the dash can sometimes reveal issues.

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