2014 Kenworth T680 Fuse Box Diagram & Amperage

Quick Answer

The 2014 Kenworth T680 typically has multiple fuse box locations to manage the complex electrical systems of a heavy-duty truck. You will generally find fuse boxes in the following locations:

• Under-hood: Often located on the passenger side, near the firewall or battery box, containing fuses and relays for major powertrain and chassis components.
• Dash/Cab (Driver's Side Kick Panel or Center Dash): This is a primary location for cab accessories, ignition, lighting, and HVAC systems.
• Sleeper (Rear Wall or Under Bunk): For trucks equipped with a sleeper, there will be a fuse box dedicated to sleeper amenities like lighting, power outlets, and HVAC controls within the sleeper area.

Under-Hood Fuse Box

The under-hood fuse box on your 2014 Kenworth T680 is typically located on the passenger side, often near the firewall or integrated into the main power distribution center. This box houses fuses and relays for critical engine functions, main power distribution, and some chassis components. Always verify the exact layout with the diagram printed on the inside of your fuse box lid, as configurations can vary slightly due to different engine options or factory installations.

Cab Fuse Box (Dash - Driver's Side)

The main cab fuse box is typically located on the driver's side kick panel or behind a removable access panel in the center dash area. This box contains fuses for most of the interior accessories, cabin lighting, HVAC, and communication systems. Always consult the diagram on the lid of your specific fuse box for the most accurate information.

Sleeper Fuse Box (If Equipped)

For 2014 Kenworth T680 models equipped with a sleeper, a dedicated fuse box will often be found in the sleeper area, typically on the rear wall or under the bunk. This fuse box manages power for sleeper-specific amenities.

How to Test a Fuse

Testing a fuse is a straightforward process that can help diagnose electrical issues. You'll need a multimeter or a fuse tester for accurate results.

1. Safety First: Ensure the vehicle's ignition is off and the key is removed. If you're working on an under-hood fuse box, you might consider disconnecting the battery's negative terminal for extra safety, especially when dealing with high-amperage circuits.
2. Locate the Fuse: Find the suspect fuse using the diagrams above and your vehicle's fuse box lid legend.
3. Visual Inspection: Many modern fuses have a small transparent window, allowing for a quick visual check. If the metal link inside is broken or charred, the fuse is blown and needs replacement.
4. Use a Fuse Tester (Indicator Style): These testers typically have a light that illuminates if the fuse is good. Simply touch the tester's probes to the two test points on the top of the fuse (small metal dots). If the light comes on, the fuse is good. If not, it's blown.
5. Use a Multimeter:
   • Set your multimeter to the "ohms" (Ω) setting, or the continuity setting (which often beeps for continuity).
   • Remove the fuse from its slot. Never test a fuse for continuity while it's still installed, as you may get misleading readings from other components in the circuit.
   • Touch one probe of the multimeter to each metal blade of the fuse.
   • If the multimeter displays a reading close to zero ohms or continuity (and beeps), the fuse is good.
   • If the multimeter displays "OL" (Open Loop) or "no continuity," the fuse is blown.
6. Replace with Correct Amperage: If a fuse is blown, replace it only with a new fuse of the exact same amperage (A) rating and physical size/type. Using a fuse with a higher amperage can lead to serious electrical damage or fire.

Common Blown Fuses on This Vehicle

On a heavy-duty truck like the 2014 Kenworth T680, certain fuses are more prone to blowing due to their continuous use or the nature of their circuits. When troubleshooting, these are good places to start:

• Cigar Lighter / 12V Power Outlets (F8 Cab Fuse Box): These outlets are frequently used to power various accessories (GPS, phones, CB radios, heated blankets), and overloading them is a common cause for this fuse to blow. Check for faulty chargers or too many high-power devices. Insufficient wiring or shorted cords can also cause this.
• Blower Motor (F4 Cab Fuse Box): The HVAC blower motor works hard, especially in extreme temperatures. A failing motor, a clogged cabin air filter causing the motor to overwork, or even a short in the blower motor's wiring can cause this fuse to blow. Check the blower motor resistance and for any obstructions in the air intake.
• Headlights (F6, F7, F8 Under-Hood): Due to continuous operation, especially for long-haul drivers, headlight fuses can sometimes blow. While less common with modern sealed-beam or LED systems, a short in the wiring or a faulty bulb (especially with older halogen setups) could be the culprit. Inspect headlight bulbs and their wiring for visible damage.
• Trailer Brake / Trailer ABS Power (F10 Under-Hood): The trailer connection sees a lot of stress. Shorts within the trailer's wiring, issues with the trailer's own ABS module, or even corrosion in the trailer umbilical cord connector can draw excessive current and blow this fuse. Inspect the trailer's electrical cord and connector for damage or corrosion. Also, check the trailer's wiring itself if possible.
• Radio / Infotainment (F3 Cab Fuse Box): While not as common, modifications to the audio system, a short in the speaker wires, or an internal fault within the head unit itself can cause this fuse to blow. If you've recently installed aftermarket electronics, double-check your wiring. Otherwise, suspect a fault within the radio unit or its associated wiring.

Always remember to check the simplest solutions first. A blown fuse often indicates an underlying problem, so simply replacing it without addressing the root cause will likely lead to another blown fuse.

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