2024 Mercedes‑Benz Sprinter — Fuse Box Diagram & Amperage

Quick answer

• Under‑hood: Front SAM/engine‑bay fuse and relay box on the left (driver) side of the engine compartment under a rectangular cover. Feeds engine management, lighting, cooling fan, A/C clutch, ABS, and key powertrain relays.
• Dash/driver kick‑panel: Interior fuse and relay module behind the left lower dash/kick panel in the driver footwell. Feeds 12V/cigar outlets, radio/infotainment, HVAC controls and blower, airbags/SRS, wipers/washer, interior lights, and many body functions.
• Trunk/cargo (rear left quarter, if equipped): Rear fuse carrier/trailer module panel behind the left rear side trim in the cargo area or behind the D‑pillar access panel (passenger models). Feeds trailer lighting/brake power, rear HVAC (if equipped), rear power points, rear defog/washer, and upfitter circuits.

Note: 2024 Sprinter (VS30/907‑910) fuse numbering varies by engine (gas/diesel), wheelbase/body, and options/upfitter content. Use these common layouts as a guide and always verify the exact assignment printed on your fuse box lid and in your owner’s manual.

Under‑hood fuse and relay box (engine bay, left side)

The under‑hood box powers high‑demand and safety‑critical circuits. Mercedes labels can differ by market; the table below maps the most common assignments found on 2019–2024 Sprinter VS30. Confirm against the lid legend.

Relays in this box (common): engine control (ECM) relay, fuel pump relay (gas), A/C compressor relay, starter control relay (command from ignition module), cooling fan relay(s), headlamp relays (if not transistor‑driven by the SAM), glow plug relay (diesel), DEF/AdBlue heater relay (diesel), and ABS pump relay. Exact relay IDs and positions vary; see the underside of the cover for the diagram.

Driver footwell fuse/relay module (left lower dash/kick‑panel)

This interior panel carries most body and convenience circuits. Remove the left lower dash/kick trim to access. The numbering below is representative; verify the diagram on the lid for your VIN/options.

Relays in/near this panel (common): blower motor relay, terminal 15 (ignition ON) relay, terminal 30 (battery) distribution, wiper relay(s), rear defog relay (passenger van), power outlet enable relay. On many VS30 vans these functions may be integrated within the front SAM; consult the legend for your trim.

Rear cargo/left‑quarter fuse carrier and trailer module (if equipped)

Cargo vans with factory towing or rear HVAC often have a small rear fuse carrier behind the left rear side trim or D‑pillar panel. Passenger vans may locate it behind an access door. This panel supports upfitter circuits too.

Relays/modules at this location: trailer tow control unit (AAG), trailer brake relay (if factory‑equipped; many NA vans use aftermarket controller), rear blower relay (if rear HVAC), rear defog relay.

Note on under‑seat pre‑fuses: Many Sprinters also have a high‑amperage pre‑fuse block under the driver seat, next to the main battery. It contains strip/MIDI fuses (60–300A typical) feeding the starter, alternator/charging, PTC cabin heater (diesel), electric sliding door, upfitter terminal 30, and the front SAM. These are not miniature blade fuses and require seat base access; verify ratings on the block cover.

How to test a fuse

• Visual check: Remove the suspect fuse and look through the translucent top. A broken or melted link indicates a blown fuse. Replace only with the same amp rating and type.
• Test light method: Key ON. Back‑probe the two tiny test tabs on top of the fuse. The test light should illuminate on both sides. Power on one side only = blown fuse; no power either side = dead circuit upstream.
• Multimeter method: With the circuit powered, check for 12V on both test tabs to ground. Or, with power off, measure continuity across the fuse (0–1 ohm good; OL/open = blown). For high‑amp strip fuses under the seat, check for voltage drop across the fuse with the load active; anything over a few tens of millivolts suggests heating/damage.

Common blown fuses on this vehicle

• 12V/cigar sockets: Frequently blow when powering inverters, tire inflators, or fridge/coolers. Check for coins/debris in sockets and total load draw; many outlets are limited to 15–20A combined.
• Trailer lighting: Shorts in a 7‑way connector or damaged trailer wiring will pop the trailer module fuses. Inspect the trailer plug for corrosion/water and the trailer harness near the hitch for chafing.
• Blower motor: A failing blower motor or seized cabin filter clog can overdraw the blower fuse. Spin the blower by hand (if accessible) and check for high current draw before replacing.
• Headlamps/markers: After upfits or lamp changes, pinched wires in the front bumper/headlamp area can blow the respective headlamp/marker fuse(s). Verify bulb wattage and socket condition.
• ABS/ESP: Wheel‑speed sensor harness damage from road debris can intermittently short and take out the low‑amp ABS control fuse. Scan for codes and inspect harnesses.

Pro tips

• If a new fuse pops immediately, stop and diagnose the short. Repeated replacement with higher amperage can damage the SAM/wiring.
• Many Sprinter circuits are split left/right with separate fuses. If one side is dark, check both the left and right lamp fuses.
• The VS30 integrates switching in the SAM; sometimes the issue is not the fuse but a failed relay transistor in the module. Always check power/ground at the load.

Important: Mercedes offered multiple fuse layouts across 2024 Sprinter variants. Use the tables as a roadmap but confirm exact fuse numbers and ratings on the printed legend inside your fuse‑box cover and in the owner’s manual for your VIN.

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