2015 Toyota RAV4 — Fuse Box Diagram & Amperage

Quick answer

• Engine compartment (under-hood) fuse/relay box: driver side, just forward of the battery, beneath a plastic cover. Also contains several high‑amperage fusible links.
• Instrument panel fuse panel: driver’s side lower dash/kick‑panel, behind the rectangular pull‑off cover.
• Trunk/cargo: no separate rear fuse box on most 2015 RAV4 models. The rear 12V outlet (if equipped) is protected by a fuse in the instrument panel or engine compartment box.

Note: Toyota covered a wide range of trims and regional specs. The cavities and numbering can vary slightly. Use the printed legend in the fuse box lid to confirm your vehicle’s exact layout.

Engine compartment fuse/relay box (under‑hood)

Most common 2013–2015 RAV4 (XA40) layout shown. “Fuse #” may be shown as a cavity number on your lid label.

Common high‑amperage fusible links in the same box (colors typical for J‑case/maxi fuses):

• ALT 140A–150A (grey) — Alternator/battery main
• MAIN 120A (grey) — Main system power
• P/WR 30A–40A (green/orange) — Power windows (varies by market)

Typical relays in the under‑hood box (positions vary; verify lid diagram):

• Starter relay (ST)
• EFI main relay
• Circuit opening (fuel pump) relay
• A/C compressor (MG CLT) relay
• Headlight relay(s) LO/HI
• Horn relay
• Cooling fan relays (FAN No.1 / FAN No.2)

Instrument panel fuse panel (driver kick‑panel)

Located behind the small cover at the lower left of the dash, by the hood release. This panel protects many body and cabin circuits.

Integrated/body relays: Many lighting and accessory relays on this generation RAV4 are built into the junction block/body ECU and are not serviceable separately. The blower relay may be in the heater control circuit or integrated; wiper and tail relays are likewise integration‑module controlled.

Trunk/cargo area

• No separate fuse block is installed in the rear on most 2015 RAV4s.
• The cargo 12V outlet (if fitted) is typically protected by the P/OUTLET RR 15A fuse in the instrument panel, or a P/OUTLET 15A fuse in the engine compartment on some markets.
• Trailer wiring: The RAV4 does not include an OEM trailer brake controller circuit or trailer‑brake fuse. Dealer/accessory tow modules use their own inline fusing; inspect the aftermarket harness near the jack compartment if your trailer lights or module are inoperative.

Again, verify fuse cavity IDs and ratings against the legend inside your cover—Toyota’s labeling by market/trim may differ slightly from the above.

How to test a fuse

1. Visual check: Pull the suspected fuse with a fuse puller. If the metal link is melted, replace it with the same amperage and color.
2. Test light method: With the fuse installed and ignition in the relevant position, probe the two tiny test tabs on top of the fuse. Power on both tabs = good fuse; power on only one tab = blown fuse; no power on either tab = upstream issue.
3. Multimeter continuity: Remove the fuse and check for continuity (0–1 Ω is good, OL is blown).
4. Voltage‑drop check under load: With the circuit on, measure across the fuse. Anything more than a few millivolts on a standard blade fuse can indicate a high‑resistance problem.

Always investigate why a fuse blew before upsizing. Installing a higher‑amp fuse can damage wiring and modules.

Common blown fuses on this vehicle (what to check first)

• CIG or P/OUTLET (15A): Commonly pops from shorted phone chargers, coins, or moisture in the socket. Inspect both front and cargo outlets for debris and corrosion.
• H‑LP LO (10A): Water intrusion in headlamp assemblies or failing bulbs can short the low‑beam circuit. Check both sides; if one keeps blowing, inspect that lamp connector and ground.
• STOP (10A): If you tow or have a hitch module, trailer‑harness shorts at the rear bumper/hatch grommet often take out the STOP fuse. Unplug the trailer converter and retest.
• HTR 40A (blower): A dragging blower motor or shorted blower resistor/module can overload the HTR fuse. Spin the blower by hand and check current draw before replacing.
• RADIO 15A: Aftermarket head units/dash cams tapped into the radio or ACC circuit can blow the fuse. Remove add‑on devices and inspect splices.
• ABS 30–40A: Rare. If blown, suspect a pinched ABS pump feed or water intrusion at the ABS actuator connector; scan for DTCs before replacing the fuse.
• ECU‑IG/ECU‑B (7.5–10A): Frequently related to add‑on remote starters, trackers, or wiring repairs at the knee panel. Remove accessories and check for chafed harnesses.

If your lid legend disagrees with the above, follow the cover—it overrides. Fuse cavities and relay placement can vary by market (US/Canada vs. EU/Asia), powertrain, and options.

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