2015 Volvo VNL Fuse Box Diagram & Amperage

Quick answer

The 2015 Volvo VNL typically features three main fuse box locations: under the hood (engine compartment), behind the passenger side kick panel (dashboard), and in the battery/storage compartment (often near the frame rail or rear of the cab).

Under-Hood Fuse Box

The under-hood fuse box, usually located near the battery box on the driver's side or in the engine compartment firewall, houses critical fuses and relays for major powertrain and accessory components. Always consult the fuse box lid for the exact layout specific to your VNL's trim and options.

Relay Locations (Under-Hood):

• R1: Starter Relay
• R2: Fuel Pump Relay
• R3: Headlight Relay (Low Beam)
• R4: Headlight Relay (High Beam)
• R5: Blower Motor Relay
• R6: A/C Clutch Relay

Dash Kick-Panel Fuse Box (Passenger Side)

This fuse box, often located behind the passenger side kick panel or accessing an interior electrical panel, contains fuses for cabin accessories, infotainment, and various interior electrical systems. Again, verify with your truck's specific fuse legend.

Battery/Storage Compartment Fuse Box

Depending on the VNL configuration, additional fuses and relays, particularly for high-power accessories or chassis-mounted components, may be found in a battery or storage compartment, often located on the frame rail or rear of the cab. This location is common for main power distribution and trailer connections.

How to test a fuse

Testing a fuse is a relatively straightforward process that can save you time and money by avoiding unnecessary trips to the mechanic. Here’s how you can do it:

1. Safety First: Always turn off the ignition and remove the key before attempting to check or replace any fuses. This prevents accidental shorts or electrical shocks.
2. Locate the Fuse Box: Refer to your owner's manual or the quick answer section above to find the relevant fuse box.
3. Identify the Suspect Fuse: Look at the fuse box legend (usually on the inside of the lid) to identify the fuse associated with the component that isn't working.
4. Visual Inspection: Most automotive fuses are translucent, allowing for a quick visual inspection. A blown fuse will have a broken or melted wire visible inside the plastic casing. If it's intact, the fuse is likely good.
5. Use a Fuse Tester (Recommended): For a more definitive test, use a fuse tester or a multimeter.
   • With a Fuse Tester: Plug the tester into the fuse. If the light on the tester illuminates, the fuse is good. If not, the fuse is blown. Some testers also allow you to test the fuse without removing it.
   • With a Multimeter: Set your multimeter to the continuity setting (often indicated by a speaker icon). Touch the probes to the two metal contact points on top of the fuse. If the multimeter beeps or shows a reading close to zero ohms, the fuse is good. If it shows an open circuit (OL or infinity), the fuse is blown.
6. Replace (If Blown): If you find a blown fuse, replace it with a new fuse of the exact same amperage (A) and type. Never use a fuse with a higher amperage rating, as this can lead to serious electrical damage or fire.

Common blown fuses on this vehicle

While fuse issues can arise in any circuit, some fuses tend to blow more often due to high usage, electrical shorts, or common component failures. On a 2015 Volvo VNL, based on typical heavy-duty truck usage and common issues, you might frequently encounter problems with:

• Cigar Lighter / 12V Power Outlet Fuse: These outlets are often overloaded with various accessories like phone chargers, GPS units, and refrigerators. If your power outlets stop working, check this fuse first (typically F21 in the dash kick-panel box, 15A).
  • What to check first: Disconnect all accessories from the outlet. If the new fuse blows immediately, there might be a short in the wiring to the outlet. If it lasts longer but blows again after connecting an accessory, that particular accessory might be faulty.
• Blower Motor Fuse: The blower motor for the HVAC system can draw a lot of current, especially on higher settings, and can degrade over time, leading to higher current draw and blown fuses (typically F12 under-hood, 30A).
  • What to check first: Try running the blower on different speed settings. If it only blows on high, the motor might be failing. Check for obstructions in the blower fan or a seized motor.
• Headlight Fuses: Due to continuous use, especially for long-haul drivers, headlight fuses can blow (F5-F8 under-hood, 10A/15A).
  • What to check first: If only one headlight is out, it's likely the bulb or the individual fuse for that side. If both are out, check the relay or a common fuse for the circuit. Always check the bulb before swapping fuses.
• Trailer Brake Controller Fuse: Given the nature of a VNL, the trailer brake circuit can be subject to high loads and potential shorts from trailer wiring issues (F14 under-hood, F41 battery compartment, 20A/40A).
  • What to check first: Disconnect the trailer from the truck. If the fuse no longer blows, the issue is likely with the trailer's wiring or electrical system. Inspect the trailer's plug and umbilical cord for damage.

Always remember to replace a blown fuse with one of the exact same amperage. Using a higher-rated fuse can cause severe damage to your truck's electrical system.

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