2017 Chevrolet Tahoe — Bulb Size Chart (Headlight, Tail, Fog)

Quick reference

Notes:

• The 2017 Tahoe did not ship with factory HID or LED headlamps in the U.S.; all trims (LS/LT/Premier) use halogen projector low beams and reflector high beams. IntelliBeam auto high beam, if equipped, does not change bulb sizes.
• Fog lamp bulb style can vary between H16 and 5202/PSX24W depending on package and production date—verify your housing marking before ordering.
• Canadian vehicles and PPV/SSV fleet packages may run DRL logic differently (often using the turn/park bulb), but the bulb families above remain the most common.

LED vs halogen upgrade considerations

• Headlights (H11/9005): Quality LED retrofit kits can improve color and longevity, but aim and beam pattern are critical. Use compact drivers and low‑profile heat sinks to clear dust caps. Some LEDs may flicker due to PWM—choose CANBUS/PWM‑compatible kits.
• Turn signals (7444NA/7443): Switching to LED can cause hyperflash. Solve with built‑in resistor (CANBUS) LED bulbs or add 6–8 ohm load resistors per side. Mount resistors to metal away from wiring—they get hot.
• DRL sharing with high beam: Because 9005 often runs at reduced voltage for DRL, ensure your LED kit tolerates DRL duty without flicker. Some owners run separate DRL‑friendly LEDs or keep halogen high beams to avoid issues.
• Brake/tail (7443): Use dual‑intensity LEDs specifically labeled 7443 for proper bright/dim levels. Cheap single‑intensity bulbs reduce tail light visibility.
• Fog lights (H16/5202): LED fog replacements work well, but check for beam cutoff to prevent glare. Some housings are sensitive to oversized heat sinks.
• Interior/markers (194, 578): Easy LED swap; no hyperflash concerns. Choose warm white (3000–4000K) if you prefer an OEM look.

How to replace each bulb

• Low beam H11: Turn the wheel inward for better access, open the hood, remove the rear dust cap from the headlamp, twist the H11 counter‑clockwise, unplug and swap. Don’t touch halogen glass.
• High beam/DRL 9005: Access from behind the headlamp, twist out and replace. If upgrading to LED, confirm the fan/heat sink clears the cap; clock the LED emitters to 3 and 9 o’clock.
• Fog light H16/5202: From the wheel well, pop out a few lower splash‑shield clips for access. Twist the bulb out; avoid pulling on the wiring. Verify your base style before installing.
• Front turn/park 7444NA: Access the socket from the rear of the headlamp assembly, twist and remove. Test both park and turn functions before re‑installing.
• Front side marker 194: Small wedge bulb accessed from the same headlamp area; twist the small socket a quarter turn.
• Tail/stop/turn 7443: Open liftgate, remove two tail lamp screws, pull the housing straight back to release pins, twist sockets out and replace the 7443. Test brake, tail, and turn before re‑fitting.
• Reverse 921: With the tail lamp removed, twist the lower clear‑lens socket and replace the 921.
• Rear side marker 194: Twist the small outboard socket in the tail housing and replace the wedge bulb.
• License plate 194: Remove the lens screws above the plate, drop the lens, pull the 194 and replace.
• Interior map 194: Gently pry the front map light lens, pull the wedge bulb; observe polarity for LEDs.
• Dome 578 festoon: Pry the lens, spring the festoon contacts and swap. For LEDs, ensure the chips face outward.

Common lighting issues for this generation

• Hyperflash after LED turn upgrades: Use proper CANBUS LEDs or resistors, one per side on the turn circuit.
• Moisture in headlamp housings: Can dim halogens or corrode sockets. Reseal vents or replace the housing if persistently fogged.
• Melted 7443 tail sockets: High heat from long‑on brake lamps can deform aged sockets. Replace the socket pigtail if contacts are loose or discolored.
• DRL/high‑beam socket heat: 9005 running as DRL can cook cheap connectors; inspect and replace with ceramic‑body pigtails if brittle.
• Fog light connector corrosion: Low‑mounted fogs see spray and salt; apply dielectric grease and ensure boots are seated.

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