2024 Ford F-150 Fuse Box Diagram & Amp Ratings

When electrical issues strike your 2024 Ford F-150—whether it is a dead 12V outlet, a trailer brake fault, or a radio that refuses to turn on—the first and easiest thing to check is a fuse. Modern F-150s are heavily computerized, meaning a single blown fuse can cause multiple systems to go offline.

As an ASE-certified master technician, I always start electrical diagnostics at the power source. Below is a comprehensive guide to the fuse box locations, diagrams, and amperage ratings for the 2024 Ford F-150.

Note: The F-150 is sold in many trims (XL, XLT, Lariat, King Ranch, Platinum, Tremor, Raptor) and powertrains (EcoBoost, V8, PowerBoost Hybrid). Always verify your specific configuration using the printed legend on the inside of your fuse box lid.

Quick Answer: 2024 Ford F-150 Fuse Box Locations

The 2024 Ford F-150 features two primary fuse boxes (also known as junction boxes or distribution boxes) that house the fuses and relays for the entire vehicle:

1. Under-Hood (Battery Junction Box / BJB): Located in the engine compartment on the passenger side, directly behind the battery. This box contains high-current fuses, relays, and protects critical powertrain components like the ECM, ABS, and starter.
2. Passenger Compartment (Body Control Module / BCM): Located inside the cabin on the passenger side, down in the footwell/kick panel area. You must remove the plastic trim cover to access it. This protects interior accessories like the radio, power windows, and interior lighting.

There is no trunk or rear cargo fuse box on the standard F-150, though models equipped with Pro Power Onboard may have additional circuit breakers near the rear inverter panel in the bed.

---

Engine Compartment Fuse Box (Battery Junction Box)

The under-hood Battery Junction Box (BJB) manages the heavy lifting. It uses a mix of Micro2 fuses, M-case, and J-case cartridge fuses. Relays for the starter, fuel pump, and A/C clutch are also integrated here.

Fuse / Relay #	Amp	Color	Circuit / Component Protected
11	30A	Pink	ABS Valves / Electronic Stability Control
12	40A	Green	Blower Motor Relay Power
15	20A	Yellow	Power Point (12V Outlet) - Center Console
16	20A	Yellow	Power Point (12V Outlet) - Instrument Panel
21	30A	Pink	Starter Motor Relay (High Current)
25	30A	Pink	Trailer Brake Control Module
34	10A	Red	A/C Clutch Relay Power
42	20A	Yellow	Engine Control Module (ECM/PCM) Power
46	10A	Red	Headlight High Beams (Left & Right)
52	30A	Pink	Fuel Pump Control Module
64	40A	Green	Cooling Fan Relay Power
71	15A	Blue	Headlight Low Beams
75	10A	Red	Powertrain Ignition (Coils)
Relay 1	-	Black	Starter Relay
Relay 2	-	Black	Blower Motor Relay
Relay 3	-	Black	A/C Clutch Relay
Relay 5	-	Black	Fuel Pump Relay

Note: Amperage and locations can vary for the PowerBoost Hybrid models due to the high-voltage battery architecture.

---

Passenger Compartment Fuse Box (Kick Panel BCM)

The interior fuse box primarily contains Micro2 fuses. To access it, pull the passenger side kick panel trim outward.

Fuse #	Amp	Color	Circuit / Component Protected
2	10A	Red	SYNC 4 Infotainment / Radio Display
4	5A	Tan	Push Button Start / Ignition Switch
8	10A	Red	Power Mirrors / Driver Door Module
13	15A	Blue	SYNC Module / Amplifier Power
18	7.5A	Brown	Keyless Entry Keypad / Immobilizer
23	20A	Yellow	Steering Wheel Control Module / Horn
26	15A	Blue	Airbag Module (Restraints Control Module)
29	15A	Blue	Interior Lighting / Puddle Lamps
32	10A	Red	Climate Control Module (HVAC Controls)
35	5A	Tan	Diagnostic Link Connector (OBD-II Port)
38	20A	Yellow	Left/Right Rear Turn Signals and Brake Lights
40	10A	Red	Park / Tail Lamps

---

How to Test a Fuse

As an ASE master tech, I see plenty of folks guessing which fuse is bad by pulling them out one by one. Not only is this tedious, but pulling the wrong fuse with the battery connected can reset modules or cause warning lights. Here is the right way to do it:

1. Use a 12V Test Light: Clamp the ground wire of your test light to a solid, unpainted metal ground (or the battery negative terminal).
2. Turn the Key On: Turn the ignition to the "ON" or "Accessory" position. Some fuses only receive power when the key is on.
3. Probe the Test Points: Look closely at the top of the fuse. You will see two tiny exposed metal dots. Touch the tip of your test light to one dot, then the other.
4. Read the Results:
   • If the light illuminates on both sides, the fuse is good.
   • If the light illuminates on one side but not the other, the fuse is blown.
   • If neither side lights up, the circuit currently has no power (normal for things like headlights if the switch is off).

Alternatively, you can use a digital multimeter set to Continuity (or Ohms). Remove the fuse (with the vehicle off) and touch the probes to the two blades. If you hear a beep or read near 0.0 ohms, the fuse is good. If it says "OL" (Open Loop), it's blown.

---

Common Blown Fuses on the 2024 Ford F-150

If you are experiencing electrical gremlins, check these common culprits first:

1. 12V Power Points (Cigar Lighter / Outlets)

Fuses #15 and #16 in the under-hood BJB. These blow frequently because owners plug in high-draw devices like air compressors, poorly insulated phone chargers, or power inverters that exceed the 20-amp limit.

2. Trailer Tow Fuses

Fuse #25 (Trailer Brake Module) and the dedicated trailer lighting fuses. Towing a trailer with frayed wiring or a shorted plug is the number one reason these fail. Before replacing the fuse, inspect your 7-way or 4-way trailer connector for corrosion or packed-in dirt.

3. Infotainment / SYNC 4 Screen

Fuse #2 (BCM). If your massive center touchscreen goes entirely black and won't hard-reset, the interior 10-amp fuse might be the culprit. Sometimes, pulling this fuse for 10 minutes and reinstalling it (if it isn't blown) acts as a hard reset for a glitchy radio.

4. Blower Motor

Fuse #12 (BJB). If your A/C or heat suddenly stops blowing air out of the vents, this 40A J-case fuse is the prime suspect. If it continues to blow after replacement, you likely have a failing blower motor drawing too much amperage, or a burned-out blower motor resistor.

Final Thoughts

Modern Ford F-150s are complex machines. While replacing a blown fuse is an easy DIY fix, a fuse that repeatedly blows indicates a dead short to ground or a failing component. Never replace a fuse with one of a higher amperage rating, as this can melt wiring harnesses and start an electrical fire.

If you can’t track down the source of your electrical issue, it’s time to call in a professional. Find a trusted shop on Repairius to get your F-150 diagnosed and repaired right the first time.