2016 Honda Civic Fuse Box Diagram & Amperage

Quick Answer

The 2016 Honda Civic features two main fuse box locations: one under the hood in the engine compartment and another inside the cabin, typically located on the driver's side kick panel.

Under-Hood Fuse Box

The under-hood fuse box is located in the engine compartment, on the driver's side, near the battery. This box houses fuses for critical engine-related components and high-current accessories.

Relay Locations (Under-Hood):

• Fuel Pump Relay: Typically located near the fuel pump fuse (Fuse #1).
• Starter Relay: Often adjacent to the starter solenoid fuse (Fuse #4).
• Headlight Relays (Low/High Beam): Dedicated relays for each beam, usually in proximity to their respective fuses.
• A/C Clutch Relay: Positioned near the A/C clutch fuse (Fuse #11).
• Cooling Fan Relay: Located near the cooling fan motor fuse (Fuse #12).

Interior Fuse Box (Driver's Side Kick Panel)

The interior fuse box is situated on the driver's side, behind a cover near the kick panel, to the left of the footrest. This box primarily controls power to various interior accessories and electronic systems.

Relay Locations (Interior):

• Accessory Power Relay: Controls the power to the 12V outlets.
• Power Window Relays: Individual relays for power windows might be found in this box or integrated into the door modules.

Common Blown Fuses on This Vehicle

While any fuse can blow, some are more common than others due to the nature of the circuits they protect. For the 2016 Honda Civic, common culprits include:

• Cigar Lighter/12V Outlet Fuses (Interior Fuse Box, #2 & #11): These often blow when overloaded by high-power accessories like phone chargers, portable air compressors, or even faulty devices plugged into them. Always check these first if your charging ports stop working.
• Brake Light Fuse (Under-Hood Fuse Box, #17): A blown brake light fuse will result in your brake lights not illuminating. This can occur due to a short in the wiring or a faulty brake light switch. Check all brake light bulbs before replacing this fuse.
• Headlight Fuses (Under-Hood Fuse Box, #6, #7, #8, #9): If one or both of your headlights stop working, the corresponding fuse is a good place to start. A common cause can be a defective bulb causing a short.
• Radio/Infotainment Fuse (Interior Fuse Box, #1): If your radio suddenly goes dark or loses power, check this fuse. Often, a brief power surge or a fault within the head unit can cause it to blow.
• Blower Motor Fuse (Under-Hood Fuse Box, #10): If your heater or A/C fan stops working across all speeds, this fuse is a prime suspect. A failing blower motor or a blockage in the ventilation system can cause the motor to draw excessive current, blowing the fuse.

When a fuse blows, it's crucial to identify the root cause to prevent it from happening again. Simply replacing a fuse without addressing the underlying issue can lead to more frequent blowouts and potentially larger electrical problems.

How to Test a Fuse

Testing a fuse is a straightforward process that can save you time and money. Here's how you can do it:

1. Safety First: Always turn off the ignition and remove the key before working with fuses. If you're working with the under-hood fuse box, disconnect the negative battery terminal for added safety.
2. Locate the Fuse Box: Refer to the "Quick Answer" section or your owner's manual to find the correct fuse box.
3. Identify the Suspect Fuse: Look at the fuse box diagram (usually printed on the inside of the fuse box cover) to identify the fuse for the circuit that has failed.
4. Visually Inspect: Many modern fuses have a clear plastic body. You can often see if the metal wire inside is broken or melted. If it is, the fuse is blown.
5. Use a Fuse Tester or Multimeter: For a more reliable test, use a fuse tester or a multimeter set to the continuity setting.
   • With a Fuse Tester: Insert the tester's probes into the small test points on top of the fuse. If the light on the tester illuminates, the fuse is good. If not, it's blown.
   • With a Multimeter: Touch one probe to each metal end of the fuse. If the multimeter beeps or displays a reading close to zero ohms, the fuse is good. If it shows "OL" (open circuit) or no reading, the fuse is blown.
6. Replace the Fuse: If the fuse is blown, replace it with a new fuse of the exact same amperage rating and color. Never use a fuse with a higher amperage rating, as this can lead to serious electrical damage or fire.

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