2016 Honda Pilot Serpentine Belt Guide

Quick Answer

For the 2016 Honda Pilot equipped with the 3.5L V6 engine, here are the key specifications for the serpentine belt and related components:

• Belt Length: Approximately 82.6 inches
• Rib Count: 6-rib
• OEM Belt Part Number: 31110-RLV-A01
• Aftermarket Cross-References:
  • Gates: K060826
  • Dayco: 5060825
  • Continental Elite: 6K826
• Auto-Tensioner Assembly Part Number: 31170-RLV-A01
• Idler Pulley Part Number: 31190-5A2-A01

Belt Routing

Properly routing the serpentine belt is critical for the correct operation of your engine's accessories. An incorrectly routed belt can cause components to spin in the wrong direction, leading to ECU faults, overheating, or a dead battery. It can also cause the belt to be thrown off the pulleys, potentially causing significant engine damage.

Before you remove the old belt, always take a clear photograph of the existing belt routing from a few different angles. This will be your best guide for installing the new one. If the belt has already broken, you will need to rely on a diagram or this text-based guide.

The 2016 Honda Pilot follows a specific path. Starting from the crankshaft pulley at the bottom of the engine, the path for the smooth side of the belt (the back) and the ribbed side is as follows:

1. The ribbed side of the belt wraps around the Crankshaft Pulley.
2. It then goes down and around the ribbed Air Conditioning Compressor Pulley.
3. From the A/C, the ribbed side wraps up and around the ribbed Alternator Pulley.
4. Next, it travels to the ribbed Power Steering Pump Pulley.
5. The back of the belt (smooth side) then contacts the smooth Water Pump Pulley.
6. Finally, the back of the belt (smooth side) wraps around the smooth Auto-Tensioner Pulley, which applies the correct tension to the system.

How to Replace the Serpentine Belt

Replacing the serpentine belt on the 3.5L V6 engine in the 2016 Pilot is a manageable task for a DIYer with the right tools. The primary tool you will need is a serpentine belt tool, which is a long, thin ratchet designed to fit into the tight space around the engine. Alternatively, a long 3/8" drive breaker bar can often be used.

The auto-tensioner has a square 3/8" drive hole. Insert your tool into this hole. To release the belt tension, you will need to rotate the tensioner. Once the tension is released, you can slip the belt off one of the pulleys (the topmost, smoothest pulley is often the easiest). Carefully unthread the old belt from the rest of the pulleys.

Using your photo or the routing diagram, thread the new belt around the pulleys, saving the final, easiest-to-access pulley for last. Apply pressure to the tensioner again, slip the belt over the final pulley, and then slowly release the tensioner, ensuring the belt seats correctly into the grooves of each ribbed pulley.

Replacement Interval

Honda does not specify a strict mileage or time interval for serpentine belt replacement. Instead, the service schedule calls for regular inspections. As a general rule of thumb in the industry, it is wise to replace the serpentine belt between 60,000 and 100,000 miles. If you frequently drive in harsh conditions (extreme heat or cold), it's better to replace it on the earlier side of that range.

Signs of a Failing Belt or Tensioner

Your belt and its tensioner provide clear warning signs when they are nearing the end of their service life. Ignoring them can lead to a breakdown.

Signs of a bad belt:

• Squealing or Chirping: This is the most common symptom, often worse on cold starts or during high-humidity conditions.
• Visible Wear: Inspect the belt for cracks, fraying, glazing (a shiny, smooth appearance), or missing ribs.

Signs of a bad tensioner:

• Grinding or Rumbling Noise: The bearing inside the tensioner pulley can fail, causing a constant noise from the belt area.
• Excessive Belt Flutter: If you see the belt vibrating or flapping while the engine is running, the tensioner spring may be weak and unable to provide adequate tension.
• Stiff or "Jerky" Tensioner Movement: When releasing tension with your tool, the movement should be smooth. If it feels gritty or jerky, the internal mechanism is failing.

If you are replacing a worn belt, it is often wise to replace the tensioner and idler pulley at the same time, as these components have a similar service life.

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