2015 Jeep Cherokee Serpentine Belt Routing, Length, & Replacement Guide

The serpentine belt on your 2015 Jeep Cherokee is a vital component that drives accessories like the alternator, water pump, and A/C compressor. Since the 2015 Cherokee uses Electric Power Steering (EPS), there is no power steering pump on the belt drive, simplifying the system slightly compared to older Jeeps. However, there are two distinct engine options for this model year—the 2.4L Tigershark 4-cylinder and the 3.2L Pentastar V6—which means belt lengths, part numbers, and routing paths will vary.

Below is your comprehensive reference guide for replacing the serpentine belt on your 2015 Jeep Cherokee.

Quick Answer: Part Numbers and Specs

Be sure to verify your engine size before purchasing replacement parts.

For 2.4L Tigershark 4-Cylinder:

• Belt Length: ~59.4 inches
• Rib Count: 6-rib
• OEM Belt Part Number: Mopar 04899592AA
• Aftermarket Cross-References: Gates K060594, Dayco 5060595, Continental Elite 4060595
• Auto-Tensioner Part Number: Mopar 5047816AB / Gates 39430
• Idler Pulley Part Number: Built into the tensioner assembly.

For 3.2L Pentastar V6:

• Belt Length: ~77.3 inches
• Rib Count: 6-rib
• OEM Belt Part Number: Mopar 05133811AA
• Aftermarket Cross-References: Gates K060773, Dayco 5060775, Continental Elite 4060775
• Auto-Tensioner Part Number: Mopar 5133820AB / Gates 39396
• Idler Pulley Part Number: Mopar 05133822AA / Gates 36329

Belt Routing

Pro-tip: Always photograph your existing belt routing before removing the old belt. It is the best reference you can have if you get lost during reinstallation.

Since we cannot display an image, here is the text-based routing path for both engines.

2.4L Tigershark Routing Path: Starting at the bottom from the Crankshaft Pulley, run the belt straight up and over the Alternator Pulley. From the alternator, pull the belt down and wrap it underneath the A/C Compressor. From the A/C, run the flat back of the belt over the smooth pulley of the Water Pump, then loop it underneath the Auto-Tensioner before returning to the Crankshaft.

3.2L Pentastar V6 Routing Path: Starting at the bottom from the Crankshaft Pulley, route the belt up and over the Water Pump. Pull it down slightly to go under the Alternator. From the alternator, the flat side of the belt goes over the smooth Idler Pulley. Next, wrap the ribbed side around the A/C Compressor, loop the flat side over the top of the Auto-Tensioner, and finally return the belt down to the Crankshaft Pulley.

How to Replace the Serpentine Belt

1. Locate the tensioner: Open the hood and locate the automatic belt tensioner. On the V6, space is tighter, and you may need to access the lower pulleys through the passenger-side wheel well by removing the inner fender splash shield.
2. Release the tension: Use a 3/8" breaker bar or a dedicated long-handled serpentine belt tool. Insert the 3/8" square drive directly into the square slot on the face of the tensioner arm (or use the appropriate socket on the tensioner bolt).
3. Remove the old belt: Rotate the tensioner counter-clockwise (to relieve tension) and slip the old belt off the easiest to reach pulley (usually the alternator or idler). Slowly let the tensioner spring back to its resting position.
4. Route the new belt: Follow the routing path detailed above. Leave the easiest top pulley for last.
5. Install the new belt: Pull the tensioner back with your breaker bar, slip the belt over the final pulley, and carefully release the tensioner.
6. Verify seating: Ensure all belt ribs are perfectly seated inside the grooves of every ribbed pulley. A misaligned belt will shred upon starting the engine.

Replacement Interval

Serpentine belts on modern Jeeps are made from durable EPDM rubber, designed to last much longer than older neoprene belts. However, EPDM belts wear out by losing material (like a tire tread) rather than cracking.

• Inspect: Every 60,000 miles.
• Replace: Most manufacturers recommend replacing the serpentine belt between 60,000 and 90,000 miles. Tensioners and idler pulleys should ideally be replaced at the same time, as their bearings wear out concurrently with the belt.

Signs of a Failing Belt or Tensioner

• Squealing or Chirping: A loud squeal on startup or acceleration indicates a stretched belt or a weak tensioner spring.
• Whirring or Grinding Noise: Typically points to a failing bearing in the idler pulley, tensioner, or one of the driven accessories.
• Visible Wear: While EPDM doesn't crack often, look for missing chunks of ribs, frayed edges, or a shiny, glazed backing.
• Loss of Accessories: If the steering suddenly gets heavy (not applicable on this EPS model, but a common belt symptom), the battery light comes on (alternator stopped), or A/C blows warm, the belt may have snapped or slipped off completely.

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