2015 Jeep Cherokee — Fuse Box Diagram & Amperage

As an ASE-certified master technician, I’ve spent plenty of time tracing electrical gremlins on modern SUVs. The 2015 Jeep Cherokee (KL generation) is packed with complex electronics, making a solid understanding of its fuse boxes critical for any DIYer or technician. Whether your radio just went dark, the 12V cigar lighter stopped charging your phone, or your fuel pump isn't priming, knowing exactly where to look can save you hours of diagnostic time.

Below is a comprehensive guide to the fuse box locations, diagrams, and amperage ratings for the 2015 Jeep Cherokee. Always remember that exact fuse placements can vary slightly depending on your specific engine (2.4L Tigershark vs. 3.2L Pentastar V6) and trim level (Sport, Latitude, Limited, Trailhawk). Always verify against the printed legend located on the inside of your fuse box lid.

Quick answer

The 2015 Jeep Cherokee features two primary fuse box locations:

1. Under-Hood Power Distribution Center (PDC): Located in the engine compartment on the passenger side, right next to the battery. This box houses the high-amp cartridge fuses, mini fuses, and major system relays.
2. Interior Fuse Panel: Located under the driver’s side dashboard. You'll need to remove the lower trim panel (below the steering wheel) to access the Body Control Module (BCM), which houses the interior mini fuses.

Note: The 2015 Jeep Cherokee does not have a separate rear cargo/trunk fuse box. Rear accessories are powered via the main under-hood PDC.

Under-Hood Power Distribution Center (PDC)

The Power Distribution Center under the hood handles the heavy lifting for the powertrain, exterior lighting, and major accessories. Below are the most critical and common fuses found in this location.

Key Relays in the PDC

Relays are also located in this under-hood block. Common relays you may need to test include:

• Starter Relay: Engages the starter motor.
• Fuel Pump Relay: Often integrated or located adjacent to the fuel pump fuse.
• Radiator Cooling Fan Relays: Critical for preventing the Pentastar V6 or 2.4L from overheating.

Interior Fuse Panel (Driver's Side Dash)

The interior fuse box is built into the Body Control Module (BCM) under the left side of the dashboard. This panel protects localized interior features like the radio, airbags, and climate control switches.

How to test a fuse

Before tearing apart your wiring harness, always check the fuses. Here is the professional way to do it:

1. Visual Inspection: Pull the fuse out using a pair of needle-nose pliers or the plastic fuse puller located in the PDC lid. Hold it up to the light. If the U-shaped metal filament inside the plastic casing is broken or features black soot, the fuse is blown and needs replacement.
2. Using a Multimeter (The Pro Way): Set your digital multimeter to the "Continuity" or "Ohms" setting. Touch the red and black probes to the two metal prongs on the fuse. If you hear a continuous beep or see a reading close to 0.0 ohms, the fuse is good. If there is no beep or it reads "OL" (Open Loop), the fuse is blown.
3. Using a 12V Test Light: Clamp the ground wire of your test light to a good, bare-metal chassis ground. Turn the ignition to the "ON" position. Probe the tiny exposed metal test points on the top of the fuse while it's still plugged in. If the test light illuminates on both sides of the fuse, it’s good. If it only lights up on one side, the fuse is blown.

Pro Tip: Never replace a blown fuse with one of a higher amperage. If a 20A fuse keeps blowing, putting a 30A fuse in its place is a guaranteed way to melt your wiring harness or start an electrical fire.

Common blown fuses on this vehicle

Based on my time in the shop, 2015 Jeep Cherokee owners frequently run into a few specific electrical gremlins:

• Cigar Lighter / 12V Power Outlets (F75 / F76): This is by far the most common blown fuse. Kids dropping coins into the rear socket or faulty aftermarket phone chargers easily short this circuit. Check these fuses first if your accessories won't power up.
• Fuel Pump Motor (F70): If your Jeep cranks but refuses to start, check the F70 fuse and the associated fuel pump relay. Sometimes a failing, high-resistance fuel pump will pull too much current and pop this 20A fuse before the pump dies completely.
• Radio / Infotainment (F12): The Uconnect systems in this era of Fiat-Chrysler vehicles are known to occasionally freeze or glitch. Sometimes, pulling the F12 fuse for 5 minutes acts as a hard reset for the radio if it stops responding.
• Trailer Tow (F90): If you utilize your Cherokee for towing, corroded trailer wiring or a short in the trailer's lighting can quickly pop the F90 fuse. Always inspect the 4-pin or 7-pin connector at the bumper for green corrosion.

Electrical diagnostics can be incredibly frustrating. If you've checked your fuses, swapped your relays, and your Cherokee is still suffering from mysterious power losses or warning lights, it might be time to call in a professional with an advanced scan tool.

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