2015 Ram 1500 Fuse Box Diagram & Amperages

If you own a 2015 Ram 1500, knowing where your fuses are and what they control is essential for tracking down electrical gremlins. Whether your 12V power outlet stopped working, your trailer lights are out, or you have a more severe starting issue, checking the fuses is always the first diagnostic step. As an ASE-certified master technician, I’ve pulled countless fuses on these trucks. Below is a comprehensive guide to the fuse box on the 2015 Ram 1500.

Quick answer

Unlike many cars that have multiple fuse boxes scattered throughout the cabin and trunk, the 2015 Ram 1500 relies on a single, centralized fuse box known as the Power Distribution Center (PDC) or Totally Integrated Power Module (TIPM).

• Under-Hood Power Distribution Center: Located under the hood on the driver’s side, directly next to the battery. This box contains all the micro fuses, cartridge fuses, and relays for the entire truck, including the ECM, radio, blower motor, and trailer towing circuits.
• Dash / Trunk: The 2015 Ram 1500 does not have a separate interior kick-panel or trunk fuse box. All primary factory electrical circuits are routed through the under-hood PDC.

Note: Always verify the exact fuse layout printed on the inside of your fuse box lid, as configurations can vary based on trim level, engine (e.g., 3.6L Pentastar, 5.7L Hemi, or 3.0L EcoDiesel), and optional equipment.

Under-Hood Power Distribution Center (PDC)

The PDC houses a combination of standard blade fuses, cartridge fuses, and relays. Below is a representative diagram of the most common and critical circuits for the 2015 Ram 1500.

Relay Note: The PDC also contains several non-serviceable relays integrated into the circuit board (like the notorious fuel pump relay) and traditional plug-in relays for the starter, radiator fan, and rear window defogger.

How to test a fuse

When an electrical component fails, don't just guess by looking at a fuse—test it properly.

1. Visual Inspection: Turn off the ignition and remove the key. Locate the suspected fuse using the legend under the lid. Pull it out using the fuse puller (usually clipped inside the fuse box). Hold it up to a bright light. If the metal "U" or "S" shaped wire inside the plastic casing is broken or features a black, scorched mark, the fuse is blown.
2. Multimeter Test (Most Accurate): Sometimes a fuse can look completely fine but have a microscopic hairline fracture. Set your digital multimeter to the "Continuity" setting (the one that beeps). Touch one probe to each of the exposed metal test points on the top of the fuse. If the multimeter beeps, the fuse is good. If it remains silent, the fuse is blown and must be replaced.
3. Test Light: With the key in the "ON" position (engine off), clip your test light ground to a solid bare metal point or the negative battery terminal. Probe both small metal tabs on the top of the installed fuse. If the light illuminates on both sides, the fuse is good. If it lights up on only one side, it’s blown.

Pro Tip: Never replace a blown fuse with one of a higher amperage. Doing so removes the failsafe and can melt your vehicle's wiring, causing catastrophic damage or a fire.

Common blown fuses on this vehicle

Based on my time in the shop, the 2015 Ram 1500 has a few specific circuits that fail more often than others. Here is what to check first:

• 12V Power Outlets / Cigar Lighter (F90, F91, F93, F104): These are by far the most commonly blown fuses. Drivers often plug in faulty phone chargers, high-draw air compressors, or heavy-duty inverters that spike the current limit. If your dash or console outlets stop working, check these 20-amp yellow fuses first.
• Trailer Tow Fuses (F53, F81): Hauling trailers with older, corroded wiring is a surefire way to pop a fuse on your Ram. If your truck's lights work perfectly but the trailer lights are dead, check the specific trailer tow turn/stop fuses. Always inspect the trailer's wiring harness for exposed wires shorting to the frame before replacing the fuse.
• Fuel Pump (F70 & Integrated Relay): The Ram 1500 (and other FCA vehicles of this era) is notorious for fuel pump relay failures. The relay is often soldered directly into the TIPM/PDC board, but there is also an external 30-amp fuse (F70). If the truck cranks but won't start, check F70. If the fuse is good but you still have no fuel pressure, you may be experiencing the classic TIPM fuel pump relay failure, which often requires an external relay bypass kit or a PDC rebuild.
• Radio / Infotainment (F97): If your Uconnect touchscreen freezes, goes black, or refuses to power on, pulling F97 for a few minutes can sometimes act as a hard reset for the module. If the fuse is physically blown, check for chafed wiring behind the radio head unit.

Electrical issues can be incredibly frustrating. If you've checked the fuses, verified the relays, and your Ram is still experiencing gremlins, it's time to let a professional look at the wiring diagrams and scan for hidden body control module codes.

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