2015 Subaru Forester Fuse Box Diagram & Amperage

As an ASE-certified master technician, I've spent countless hours tracking down electrical gremlins. Often, a dead radio, unresponsive blower motor, or a car that won't start comes down to a single blown fuse. If you’re trying to diagnose an electrical issue on your 2015 Subaru Forester, having a solid grasp of your fuse box locations and circuit layouts is half the battle.

Below is a comprehensive guide to the fuse boxes, amperage ratings, and relay locations for the 2015 Subaru Forester. Note: Fuse configurations can vary slightly depending on your specific trim level (e.g., Base, Premium, Limited, Touring, or XT) and optional equipment. Always verify with the printed legend on the inside of your fuse box lid.

Quick answer

The 2015 Subaru Forester has two primary fuse box locations. There is no trunk/cargo fuse panel on this model.

1. Engine Compartment Fuse Box: Located under the hood on the driver’s side, near the battery.
2. Passenger Compartment Fuse Box: Located inside the cabin, under the driver's side dashboard, hidden behind the pull-out coin tray/storage cubby.

Engine Compartment Fuse Box

The under-hood fuse box houses the high-amperage maxi fuses that protect major electrical subsystems, along with the fuses for vital engine components like the ECM, fuel pump, headlights, and ABS. To access it, open the hood and look for the black plastic cover behind the battery on the driver's side. Unclip the tabs to remove the lid.

Under-Hood Fuses

Under-Hood Relays

Also located in this main fuse box are several vital relays:

• Main Relay: Supplies power to the ECM and engine sensors.
• Fuel Pump Relay: Triggers the fuel pump when the key is turned.
• Starter Relay: Engages the starter motor.
• A/C Relay: Cycles the air conditioning compressor clutch.
• Radiator Fan Relays (Main & Sub): Controls cooling fans.

Passenger Compartment (Dash) Fuse Box

The interior fuse box is responsible for cabin comforts and internal electrical systems. To find it, sit in the driver's seat and locate the small coin tray on the lower left side of the dash. Pull the tray out by pulling firmly towards you and slightly upward. The fuse diagram is typically printed on the back of the coin tray.

Dash Fuses

How to test a fuse

Testing a fuse is a straightforward process, but doing it correctly saves a lot of diagnostic time. You don't necessarily have to pull every fuse to check it.

1. Visual Inspection: The easiest method. Pull the suspected fuse using the plastic puller tool (usually located in the under-hood fuse box lid). Look at the U-shaped metal wire inside the colored plastic. If the wire is broken or scorched, the fuse is blown.
2. Use a Test Light: Ground the clamp of a 12V automotive test light to a bare metal surface. Turn the vehicle's ignition to the "ON" position. Touch the probe to the small metal test points exposed on the top of the fuse. If the test light illuminates on one side but not the other, the fuse is blown. If it lights up on both, the fuse is good.
3. Use a Multimeter: Set your digital multimeter to the "Continuity" setting (the one that beeps) or Ohms ($\Omega$). Touch a probe to each test point on top of the fuse. If you hear a beep or see a reading close to 0.0 ohms, the fuse is good. If it reads "OL" (Open Loop), the fuse is blown.

Important: Always replace a blown fuse with one of the exact same amperage and color. Putting a 30A fuse in a 15A slot removes the circuit's protection and can cause melted wires or even an electrical fire.

Common blown fuses on this vehicle

In my experience working on the SJ generation (2014-2018) Subaru Foresters, a few specific fuses tend to pop more frequently than others:

• 12V Power Outlets (Fuses #1 & #2, Dash): This is by far the most common. Phone chargers, dash cams, or tire inflators can easily overdraw these 15-amp circuits. If your phone won't charge, check here first.
• Audio/Radio (Fuse #4 Dash or #16 Under-Hood): If the Starlink infotainment screen goes entirely black and unresponsive, check these fuses.
• Blower Motor (Fuse #7 Under-Hood): If your A/C and heat work, but no air is pushing through the vents, the 40A blower fuse or the blower motor relay is the prime suspect. Foresters are somewhat notorious for blower motors drawing excess current as they age and get dirty.
• Stop Lights (Fuse #14 Dash): If your brake lights aren't illuminating, check this 10A fuse before assuming all your bulbs burned out at once. Also, a blown brake light fuse can sometimes interfere with shifting out of Park.

If a fuse blows immediately after you replace it, do not keep throwing fuses at it. This indicates a hard short to ground in the wiring or the component itself, which requires proper diagnosis.

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