2016 Subaru Forester — Fuse Box Diagram & Amperage

Quick answer

• Engine compartment (under-hood) fuse and relay box: Left side of the engine bay next to the battery under a black plastic cover. Houses high-amperage “SBF” fusible links, standard blade fuses (ECM/PCM, fuel pump, headlights, A/C, ABS), and several relays (cooling fans, A/C, fuel pump, starter, horn, headlight).
• Cabin fuse panel (driver’s side kick panel): Behind the small access panel low on the dash to the left of the steering column. Protects interior loads like radio/infotainment, power outlets (cigar/12V), blower motor, SRS/airbag, ABS control, door locks, power windows, wipers, and lighting circuits.
• Trunk/cargo: No separate rear fuse block on the 2016 Forester. The cargo 12V power outlet is fused in the cabin panel.

Note: Subaru published several fuse layouts depending on trim, options, and market. The charts below reflect the most common 2016 Forester (SJ) configuration in North America. Always verify against the label on the fuse box lid and your owner’s manual.

Engine compartment fuse and relay box (under-hood)

Typical fuses protecting powertrain, lighting, ABS, and A/C systems. “SBF” denotes slow-blow high-amperage links. Colors are standard blade-fuse colors.

Common relays in this box (exact positions vary; identified on lid):

• Fuel pump relay
• A/C compressor relay
• Radiator fan relays (Fan 1 and Fan 2)
• Headlight relays (High and Low)
• Starter relay
• Horn relay

Cabin fuse panel (driver’s dash/kick panel)

Interior comfort, body, and safety systems are here, including power outlets and blower motor. Below is the most common North American layout for key circuits (positions may differ by trim/options).

Relays near this panel (may be on an adjacent bracket):

• Blower motor relay
• Rear defogger relay
• Accessory (ACC) relay
• IG1/IG2 relays (ignition)

Trunk/Cargo fuse block

The 2016 Forester does not use a separate rear fuse box. The cargo power outlet is protected by the cabin fuse panel (commonly No. 20, 15A, blue). Trailer brake/controller circuits are not factory-equipped; aftermarket trailer brake controllers must be added with an inline fuse or to an add-a-circuit in an appropriate fused position. Always follow the controller manufacturer’s instructions and Subaru wiring guidelines.

How to test a fuse

• Visual check: Remove the suspect fuse with a puller or needle-nose pliers. A blown fuse usually has a melted or broken link. Replace only with the same amperage and type.
• Test light: With the key in the proper position for the circuit (often ON or ACC), probe the two tiny test points on top of each fuse. Both sides should light. If only one side lights, the fuse is blown.
• Multimeter: Set to continuity or resistance. With fuse removed, probe both blades—0–1 ohm indicates good; infinite resistance indicates blown. You can also check for voltage on both test points with the fuse installed.
• Root-cause first: A fuse blows because of an overcurrent or short. If a new fuse pops immediately, stop and diagnose wiring/components before upsizing the fuse—never install a larger fuse.

Common blown fuses on this vehicle (what to check first)

• Cigar/12V outlets (Cabin No. 13 front, No. 20 cargo, both typically 15A blue): Coins, phone chargers, or damp debris can short the socket. Inspect the socket for foreign objects and corrosion; check chargers/cables for faults.
• Radio/infotainment (Cabin No. 2, 15A blue): After head unit changes, amp installs, or accessory taps, look for pinched harnesses or incorrect grounds behind the radio.
• Blower motor (Cabin No. 19, 25A clear): If the fuse blows, the blower motor may be drawing excess current due to worn bearings or a failing resistor/module. Spin the motor by hand, check current draw, and inspect the resistor pack.
• Headlights (Under-hood F2–F5, each 15A blue): Bulb shorts, moisture in housings, or aftermarket HID/LED kits commonly cause blown fuses. Verify correct bulb wattage and inspect connectors for heat damage.
• Fuel pump (Under-hood F1, 15A blue): If it blows, suspect a failing pump, chafed harness at the tank, or corrosion at the top-hat connector. Check pump current draw with an ammeter.
• ABS/VDC: Under-hood SBF-1 (40A orange) is for the pump motor; cabin No. 10 (7.5A brown) powers the control unit. If either blows, scan for codes and inspect wheel speed sensor harnesses for shorts to ground.
• A/C clutch (Under-hood F6, 10A red): A clutch coil short or chafed compressor lead is common. Measure coil resistance and inspect the lead where it flexes.

Notes and best practices

• Subaru used more than one fuse map in 2016 depending on trim (Base, Premium, Limited, Touring; 2.5i/XT; with/without EyeSight, heated mirrors, de-icer, amp/sub, etc.). Always confirm against the printed legend inside each fuse cover.
• If a critical engine fuse (ECU-IG/ECU-B, IGN coils, fuel pump) is blowing, avoid repeated key cycles—test with an ammeter and isolate the short with component disconnects.
• Never upsize a fuse. If you need more circuits for accessories, use an add-a-fuse in a non-critical circuit and a properly rated inline fuse/relay.

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