2025 Tesla Model 3 — Fuse Box Diagram & Amperage

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Quick answer

On the 2025 Tesla Model 3, there are three primary locations for the low-voltage fuse boxes and related components:

• Right-Hand Kick Panel/Passenger Footwell: The main cabin fuse box is located behind a removable panel in the passenger-side footwell, near the front door hinges.
• Front Trunk (Frunk): A secondary fuse box is located under the hood, a common location for under-hood fuse centers. On the Model 3, this is in the front trunk or "frunk" area, usually beneath a plastic cover near the windshield cowl.
• Rear Trunk/Cargo Area: Some high-voltage and low-voltage components are located in the rear of the vehicle, often related to the vehicle charge port and drive units.

WARNING: Tesla vehicles use a high-voltage battery system that is extremely dangerous. Do not attempt to service any components marked with the orange high-voltage warning label. Service of the high-voltage system should only be performed by a qualified technician. This guide covers the user-serviceable low-voltage (12V) fuses only.

Cabin Fuse Box (Passenger Footwell)

This fuse box contains fuses for most of the interior and electronic systems. The layout can vary slightly based on vehicle configuration. Always confirm fuse assignments with the diagram on the fuse box cover or your vehicle's digital service manual.

Front Trunk (Frunk) Fuse Box

This fuse box handles many of the exterior and traditional "under-hood" systems. As this is an EV, you will not find fuses for components like a fuel pump, ignition, or starter.

Relay Information: Modern EVs like the Model 3 rely heavily on solid-state relays and integrated body control modules rather than traditional plug-in relays. The functions for A/C, lighting, and ABS pumps, which were once controlled by user-replaceable relays, are now managed by these built-in controllers.

How to test a fuse

If a component like your radio, headlights, or 12V power outlet stops working, a blown fuse is a likely culprit. Testing a fuse is simple.

1. Safety First: Turn the vehicle completely off. In a Tesla, this means putting it in Park and exiting the vehicle to allow it to power down.
2. Locate the Fuse Box: Find the correct fuse box using the guide above.
3. Remove the Fuse: Use the plastic fuse puller tool often found inside the fuse box lid. If there isn't one, a pair of needle-nose pliers will work in a pinch. Pull the suspect fuse straight out of its slot.
4. Inspect the Fuse: Hold the fuse up to the light. Inside the plastic body, you will see a small metal strip. If this strip is intact, the fuse is good. If the strip is broken or looks burnt, the fuse is blown and needs to be replaced.
5. Use a Multimeter (Recommended): For a more definitive test, set a multimeter to the continuity setting (often looks like a sound wave symbol). Touch the probes to each of the two metal tabs on top of the fuse. If the multimeter beeps or reads close to zero ohms, the fuse is good. If it remains silent or reads "OL" (Open Line), the fuse is blown.
6. Replace the Fuse: If the fuse is blown, replace it with a new one of the exact same amperage rating. Using a higher-rated fuse can cause a fire. The amp rating is printed on top of the fuse.

Common blown fuses on this vehicle

While the 2025 Tesla Model 3 is highly reliable, certain electrical issues are more common than others.

• 12V Power Socket Fuse (Cabin Fuse F20): This is one of the most common fuses to blow. It is almost always caused by a faulty device plugged into the outlet (like a phone charger, tire inflator, or vacuum). If this fuse blows, a new one will likely blow again until the faulty accessory is unplugged. Inspect the device's plug for debris or damage before plugging it back in.
• Headlight or Taillight Fuses (Frunk Fuses FA4, FA5, FA10, FA11): While LED lights are very robust, faults can still occur in the lighting control modules or wiring. If a fuse for a specific light blows, inspect the light assembly for any signs of moisture intrusion or damage. If replacing the fuse doesn't fix the issue, the lighting module itself may need diagnosis.
• "Phantom" Electrical Issues: Many strange electrical problems on a Tesla (e.g., windows not working, screen acting sluggish, error messages) are not caused by a blown fuse, but by a weak or failing 12V battery. The Model 3 uses a low-voltage 12V battery (similar to a regular car) to power up the high-voltage contactors and run the vehicle's electronics. When this battery starts to fail, it can cause a wide range of seemingly unrelated problems. If you experience multiple electrical gremlins, have your 12V battery tested before you start chasing fuses.

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