2022 Tesla Model Y — Fuse Box Diagram & Amperage

Quick answer

The 2022 Tesla Model Y uses a mix of solid‑state electronic fuses (eFuses) and a limited number of conventional, low‑voltage fuses. The primary locations you’ll deal with are:

• Front service area (under-hood/frunk, right side under the plastic cowl): Low‑voltage power distribution and eFuse block (main serviceable location).
• Right dash kick‑panel (cabin): Interior low‑voltage fuse/eFuse strip (present on some builds; others route these circuits to the front controller).
• Rear cargo area (left quarter, behind trim near the sub‑trunk/charge port): Rear power distribution module with eFuses (generally non‑user‑serviceable).

Note: Tesla frequently revises controller hardware and labeling mid‑year. Do not rely solely on any generic list—always verify the printed legend in the fuse cover (if provided) and the on‑screen Service Mode or service documentation for your specific VIN.

Front service area fuse/eFuse block (under-hood, passenger/right side)

Most exterior lighting, wipers/washer, horn, HVAC blower, ABS/ESP, and front 12V power circuits are protected here via controller‑managed eFuses. Some builds include a small blade‑fuse subset. If your vehicle has a printed lid legend, use it as the final authority.

Notes:

• The A/C compressor on Model Y is high‑voltage electric, not a 12V clutch; protection and control are via HV contactors and software, not a conventional A/C clutch fuse.
• Starter and ignition fuses/relays do not exist on EVs. System wakeups are controller‑managed.

Right dash kick‑panel (interior) fuse/eFuse strip (if equipped)

Some 2022 Model Y builds include an interior serviceable strip or in‑line mini fuses behind the RH kick panel or under the glovebox. Others move these loads to the front controller eFuse set. Always verify the printed legend in your vehicle.

Notes:

• On many builds these are logical eFuses without color coding. If you do see blade fuses, replace only with the same rating and type shown on the legend.

Rear cargo area power distribution (behind LH trim near charge port/sub‑trunk)

The rear module primarily protects liftgate, rear defroster, charge port, trailer lighting (if equipped), and cooling pumps. It is typically controller‑based and not designed for routine fuse replacement.

Notes:

• Model Y does not provide a traditional trailer brake controller circuit from the factory; aftermarket controllers require dedicated wiring and power—no OEM “trailer brake fuse.”

Relay locations (what to expect)

• Conventional plug‑in relays are largely absent. Lighting, wipers, blower, horn, and many body functions are driven by solid‑state high‑side/low‑side drivers in the vehicle controllers (VCFront/VCLeft/VCRight).
• High‑voltage battery protection uses a pyrotechnic fuse (pyro‑fuse) and contactors internal to the pack—not serviceable externally.
• DC‑DC converter and coolant pumps are software‑controlled; no external relays in the fuse boxes.

How to test a fuse

• If your Model Y has blade fuses:
  • Key off and enter Service Mode if available. Pull the cover and use the legend to locate the suspect fuse.
  • Use a test light or DVOM on the exposed test tabs: both sides powered = good; one side powered = open fuse; neither side powered = upstream power/control issue.
  • Replace only with the exact same amp rating and style. If it blows again immediately, stop and diagnose the shorted load or chafed wiring.
• For eFuses (most circuits on Model Y):
  • Use the in‑car Service Mode or Tesla Toolbox (dealer/service) to view eFuse status, resets, and fault counters.
  • Correct the underlying fault (shorted component, water intrusion, pinched harness), then clear faults and command an eFuse reset.
  • Some eFuses will auto‑reset after the fault is removed; persistent faults indicate a wiring/component issue.

Safety tips: Always disconnect the 12V battery and wait for the vehicle to power down when working on low‑voltage harnesses. Never probe SRS circuits with a powered test light—use a high‑impedance meter.

Common blown fuses on this vehicle (and what to check first)

• 12V power outlet/USB power: Check coins/debris in the socket, shorted USB hubs/cables. Inspect the front power outlet harness in the console for pinched wires.
• Washer pump/wipers: Look for frozen nozzles/lines causing overcurrent, or water intrusion at the frunk corner harnesses.
• HVAC blower: Cabin filter service can leave debris; verify blower spins freely and inspect for water intrusion from the cowl drains.
• Exterior lighting: After bumper or headlamp service, ensure connectors are seated and no pins are bent; check for aftermarket LED loads tapping into the harness.
• Trailer lighting (tow package): Aftermarket trailer wiring is a frequent source of shorts; unplug the trailer and recheck. There is no factory trailer brake power feed—do not tap random circuits.

Because Tesla employs eFuses, repeated trips often point to an actual circuit problem rather than a simple “bad fuse.” Use Service Mode to identify the specific eFuse/circuit name, address the cause, then clear/reset.

Always verify the exact fuse/eFuse labeling and ratings using the legend printed on your vehicle’s fuse cover (when present) and the on‑screen Service Mode for your VIN build. Trim levels and running changes can shift circuits between the front and interior blocks.

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