2016 Toyota Tacoma Fuse Box Diagram & Amperage Guide

If you are trying to diagnose an electrical issue on your 3rd Generation (2016+) Toyota Tacoma, the very first thing you should check is your fuses and relays. From a radio that suddenly stopped working to a dead fuel pump or trailer lights that won't illuminate, a simple blown fuse is often the culprit.

As an ASE-certified master technician, I always recommend starting with the easiest and cheapest fix. Below is the comprehensive fuse box diagram and location guide for the 2016 Toyota Tacoma. Note: Fuse layouts can vary slightly depending on your exact trim level (SR, SR5, TRD Sport, TRD Off-Road, Limited) and engine (2.7L 4-cylinder or 3.5L V6). Always verify with the printed legend on the inside of your fuse box lid.

Quick answer

The 2016 Toyota Tacoma has two primary fuse box locations:

1. Engine Compartment Fuse Box: Located under the hood on the driver’s side, directly behind the battery.
2. Passenger Compartment Fuse Box: Located inside the cabin under the driver’s side dashboard, near the kick panel and OBD-II port.

There is no trunk or cargo area fuse box on the 2016 Tacoma.

Engine Compartment Fuse Box

The under-hood fuse box houses the main high-amperage fuses, relays, and circuits that run critical engine components, ABS, exterior lighting, and heavy-draw accessories like the towing package. To access it, simply push the retaining tab on the black plastic cover and lift it off.

Common Relays located here: Starter Relay (ST), EFI Relay, Fuel Pump Relay (C/OPN), Horn Relay, A/C Magnetic Clutch Relay, and Headlight Relay.

Passenger Compartment (Interior) Fuse Box

The interior fuse box handles most of the cabin accessories, infotainment, climate control fan, and interior lighting. To access it, look under the driver’s side dash. You may need to lie on your back and look up near the kick panel. Pull the rectangular plastic cover off to reveal the fuses.

How to test a fuse

Testing a fuse is a straightforward process that takes only a few seconds. Do not rely solely on visual inspection, as micro-fractures in the fuse element can be hard to see.

1. Use a Multimeter: Set your digital multimeter to the continuity setting (the one that beeps) or Ohms. Touch one probe to each of the small metal test points on the top of the fuse. If it beeps (or reads near 0 Ohms), the fuse is good. If there is no beep (or it reads OL/Open Loop), the fuse is blown.
2. Use a 12V Test Light: With the key in the "ON" position (engine off), clip the test light ground wire to a bare metal bolt under the dash or hood. Touch the tip of the test light to both metal test points on top of the installed fuse. If the light illuminates on both sides, the fuse is good. If it only lights up on one side, the fuse has blown.
3. Use a Fuse Puller: Most Tacomas include a small white plastic fuse puller inside the engine compartment fuse box lid. Use it to pull the fuse and visually inspect the U-shaped wire inside.

Pro Tip: Never replace a blown fuse with one of a higher amperage rating. Doing so removes the circuit's protection and can lead to melted wiring, damaged modules, or even an electrical fire.

Common blown fuses on this vehicle

If you are dealing with a specific electrical issue on your 2016 Tacoma, here are the most common fuses that blow and what you should check first:

• P/OUTLET (15A): This is by far the most commonly blown fuse on the Tacoma. It protects the 12V cigarette lighter/power outlets. It usually blows because a cheap phone charger shorted out, or a high-draw device (like a 12V tire inflator) pulled too many amps. Check your accessories before replacing.
• TOWING TAIL (30A) or TOWING BRK (30A): If your trailer lights or trailer brakes aren't working, check these under-hood fuses first. They frequently blow due to bad wiring or a short circuit on the trailer side. Always inspect the trailer wiring harness for chafing before replacing these fuses.
• RADIO (20A) & ACC (7.5A): If your Entune infotainment screen goes black and refuses to turn on, check these two fuses in the interior kick panel.
• STOP (10A): If your brake lights aren't illuminating, check this fuse. If the fuse is good, the issue is likely the brake light switch located at the top of the brake pedal arm.

If you keep replacing a fuse and it continues to blow immediately, you have a dead short to ground somewhere in that circuit. Tracing electrical shorts can be incredibly frustrating without the right tools and wiring diagrams.

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