2014 Ford F-250 Super Duty Fuse Box Diagram & Amperage

Quick Answer

The 2014 Ford F-250 Super Duty typically has three main fuse box locations:

• Under-hood Power Distribution Box: Located on the driver's side, near the battery.
• Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel: Located behind the kick panel on the passenger side.
• Trailer Brake Controller Fuse Panel: Located behind the lower dash trim on the driver's side, specifically for trailer brake circuits.

Under-hood Power Distribution Box

This fuse box contains high-current fuses and relays for critical engine functions, lights, and trailer connections. It's located on the driver's side of the engine compartment, near the battery. Always refer to the fuse legend inside the fuse box lid for the exact configuration for your vehicle trim.

Relay Locations (Under-hood Power Distribution Box):

• R1: Fuel Pump Relay
• R2: Starter Relay
• R3: PCM Relay
• R4: Blower Motor Relay
• R5: A/C Clutch Relay
• R6: Trailer Tow Park Lamp Relay
• R7: Trailer Tow Backup Lamp Relay
• R8: Horn Relay

Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel

This fuse panel is located behind the kick panel on the passenger side, near the floorboard. It contains fuses for various interior electrical components, accessories, and some control modules.

Trailer Brake Controller Fuse Panel

For models equipped with a factory-integrated trailer brake controller, there's a dedicated fuse panel that houses fuses specifically for the trailer brake system. This is typically found behind the lower dash trim on the driver's side. Always check your owner's manual for the exact location.

How to Test a Fuse

1. Locate the Fuse Box: Refer to your owner's manual or the "Quick Answer" section above to find the correct fuse box.
2. Identify the Suspect Fuse: Look at the fuse box diagram (either in your owner's manual or on the fuse box lid) to find the fuse for the component that isn't working.
3. Visual Inspection: Pull the fuse straight out. Most modern fuses are transparent. Look at the metal wire inside. If it's broken or melted, the fuse is blown. Replace it with a new fuse of the exact same amperage and color.
4. Using a Multimeter (for non-transparent fuses or a more definitive test):
   • Set your multimeter to the continuity setting (usually indicated by a symbol that looks like a sound wave or diode symbol).
   • Touch one probe of the multimeter to each metal blade of the fuse. If the multimeter beeps or shows a reading close to zero ohms, the fuse is good. If there's no beep or it shows "OL" (open loop), the fuse is blown and needs replacement.
   • Alternatively, you can test the voltage. With the ignition on, touch the probes to the test points on the top of the fuse. You should get a voltage reading on both sides. If you get voltage on one side but not the other, the fuse is blown.

Common Blown Fuses on This Vehicle

While any fuse can blow, some are more common than others due to the nature of the circuits they protect or accessories often added to trucks like the F-250:

• Cigar Lighter / 12V Power Outlets (F2 - Passenger Compartment, F17/F18 - Under-hood): These fuses are often blown due to overcurrent from charging multiple devices, using high-power accessories (like air compressors), or faulty chargers/accessories. What to check first: Disconnect all accessories from the outlets and replace the fuse. If it blows again immediately, there might be a wiring issue.
• Trailer Tow Fuses (F14, F15, F16 - Under-hood, F1, F2 - Trailer Brake Panel): If you're experiencing issues with trailer lights, brakes, or the trailer battery charging, these are prime suspects. What to check first: Inspect your trailer wiring for shorts or damage before replacing the fuse. A short in the trailer's wiring can repeatedly blow these fuses.
• Brake Lights (F4 - Passenger Compartment): If your brake lights aren't working, this fuse is a common culprit. What to check first: Ensure the brake pedal position switch isn't stuck and check for any aftermarket trailer wiring connections that might be shorting out.
• Blower Motor (F5 - Under-hood): If your HVAC fan isn't working on any speed, this fuse could be blown. What to check first: A failing blower motor or resistor can draw excessive current and blow this fuse. Sometimes, debris in the blower motor can also cause it to jam.
• Headlights (F1-F4 - Under-hood): If one or both of your headlights stop working, check these fuses. What to check first: While a blown fuse is possible, a burnt-out bulb is often the simpler explanation for a single headlight failure. If both headlights are out (and not just high beams), then the fuse or a relay is more likely.

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