2016 Ford Transit Fuse Box Diagram & Amperages

As an ASE-certified master technician, I know firsthand that electrical issues in commercial vans can bring your business to a grinding halt. If you’re driving a 2016 Ford Transit and dealing with a dead radio, inactive 12V power outlet, or a van that won't start, checking the fuses is your first line of defense.

Below is a comprehensive guide to the fuse box diagrams, amperages, and relay locations for the 2016 Ford Transit (full-size van). Note: Exact fuse layouts can vary slightly depending on your specific engine (3.7L, 3.5L EcoBoost, or 3.2L Diesel) and trim level. Always verify with the printed legend on the inside of your fuse box lid.

Quick Answer: Fuse Box Locations

The 2016 Ford Transit is equipped with three primary fuse and relay locations to handle its extensive electrical systems:

1. Engine Compartment Fuse Box (Battery Junction Box): Located under the hood on the driver's side, near the coolant reservoir.
2. Passenger Compartment Fuse Box (Body Control Module / BCM): Located under the dashboard on the driver's side, below the steering wheel behind a removable trim panel.
3. Pre-Fuse / High Current Box: Located beneath the driver's seat, attached to the vehicle battery compartment.

Engine Compartment Fuse Box (Battery Junction Box)

This under-hood fuse box primarily houses high-amperage fuses and relays for major engine and chassis components, such as the ECM/PCM, fuel pump, ABS, and starter relay.

Passenger Compartment Fuse Box (BCM)

Located under the driver's side dash, this fuse box controls the interior electronics, lighting, safety systems, and infotainment.

Pre-Fuse / High Current Box (Under Driver's Seat)

Because the battery is located under the driver's seat in the 2016 Ford Transit, Ford placed a high-current pre-fuse box directly attached to the battery positive terminal. This box protects the primary power feeds to the other fuse boxes and high-draw equipment.

How to Test a Fuse

Before you start tearing apart interior trim or replacing expensive modules, always test the fuses. Here is the professional way to do it:

1. Visual Inspection: Pull the suspected fuse using fuse pullers or needle-nose pliers. Hold it up to a light source. If the internal U-shaped metal wire is broken or charred, the fuse is blown and must be replaced with the exact same amperage.
2. Use a 12V Test Light: Turn the ignition to the "ON" position (engine off). Attach the alligator clip of your test light to a good ground. Probe the two small metal test points on the top of the fuse. If the test light illuminates on both sides, the fuse is good. If it only lights up on one side, the fuse is blown.
3. Use a Digital Multimeter: Set your multimeter to the continuity setting (the one that beeps) or Ohms. Touch one probe to each side of the fuse. A continuous beep or a reading close to 0.00 Ohms means the fuse is intact. "OL" or no beep indicates a blown fuse.

Common Blown Fuses on This Vehicle

Working on Ford Transits daily, I see a few repeat offenders when it comes to blown fuses:

• 12V Power Points / Cigar Lighter (F47, F48, F49 - Passenger Box): Commercial drivers use these vans as mobile offices, plugging in laptops, phone chargers, and inverters. Overloading these circuits is extremely common. Always check these 20A fuses first if your accessories lose power.
• Trailer Tow Module (F7 - Under Seat & F24 - Under Hood): Short circuits in trailer wiring harnesses are a notorious problem. If your trailer lights or trailer brake controller suddenly stop working, check the trailer tow fuses. Inspect your trailer's pigtail connector for corrosion before replacing the fuse.
• Customer Connection Points (F4, F5, F6 - Under Seat): Upfitters and fleet companies often wire aftermarket equipment (ladder racks, strobes, cargo lights) to the CCPs under the driver's seat. If your aftermarket gear fails, these 60A midi fuses are the first place to look.
• Blower Motor (F11 - Under Hood): If the cabin heater or A/C stops blowing air, check F11. If the fuse is blown, ensure the cabin air filter isn't clogged, which can cause the blower motor to work too hard and pull excessive amperage.

Remember, a fuse blows for a reason. It is designed to be the weak link to prevent wiring fires. Never replace a fuse with one of a higher amperage rating.

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