2020 Honda CR-V Serpentine Belt Routing & Length

Quick Answer

• Belt Length: Approximately 1195 mm (47.05 inches)
• Rib Count: 6-rib
• OEM Belt Part Number: 31110-5PA-A02
• Aftermarket Cross-references:
  • Gates K060470
  • Dayco 5060470
  • Continental Elite 4060470
• Auto-Tensioner Part Number: 31170-5PA-A01
• Idler Pulley Part Number: 31180-5PA-A01

Belt Routing

The 2020 Honda CR-V (with the 1.5L turbocharged engine) utilizes a relatively straightforward serpentine belt routing system. Before you begin any work, always take a photograph of your existing belt routing! This will serve as an invaluable reference during reinstallation.

Here's a text-based description of the typical routing path:

1. Starting from the Crankshaft Pulley (the largest pulley at the bottom-front of the engine), the belt runs up to the A/C Compressor pulley.
2. From the A/C Compressor pulley, the belt then extends upward and slightly to the right to wrap around the Idler Pulley.
3. After the Idler Pulley, the belt travels downward to the Alternator pulley.
4. From the Alternator, the belt continues to the left towards the Power Steering Pump pulley.
5. Following the Power Steering Pump, the belt goes downward to the Water Pump pulley.
6. Finally, from the Water Pump pulley, the belt wraps around the Automatic Tensioner pulley before returning to the Crankshaft Pulley, completing the loop.

How to Replace the Serpentine Belt

Replacing the serpentine belt on your 2020 Honda CR-V is a manageable DIY task for those with basic mechanical skills. You will primarily need a serpentine belt tool or a 3/8-inch breaker bar to release the tension on the automatic tensioner.

1. Safety First: Ensure the engine is off and cool. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery for added safety.
2. Locate the Tensioner: Identify the automatic tensioner pulley. It will have a square opening that fits a 3/8-inch drive ratchet or serpentine belt tool.
3. Release Tension: Insert your tool into the square opening of the tensioner. Rotate the tensioner clockwise (typically, but refer to your owner's manual if unsure) to relieve tension on the belt. Hold it in this position.
4. Remove the Old Belt: While holding the tensioner, carefully slip the old belt off one of the pulleys (the idler pulley is often easiest).
5. Inspect Pulleys: With the belt removed, check all pulleys for any signs of wear, wobbling, or excessive play. Spin each pulley by hand; they should turn smoothly with minimal noise. Replace any failing idler pulleys or other components.
6. Route the New Belt: Referring to the photo you took earlier and the routing description above, carefully route the new serpentine belt around all the pulleys, leaving the tensioner pulley or one other easy pulley for last.
7. Final Tensioning: Once the new belt is mostly in place, use your tool to again rotate the tensioner to its slack position. Carefully slip the belt over the last pulley. Slowly release the tensioner, ensuring the belt seats correctly in all the pulley grooves.
8. Double-Check: Visually inspect the entire belt to ensure it is properly seated in all grooves on every pulley. Start the engine briefly and listen for any abnormal noises. Turn the engine off and re-check the belt's position.

Replacement Interval

Honda generally recommends inspecting the serpentine belt at regular service intervals (often every 15,000 to 30,000 miles) and replacing it as needed. There isn't a rigid mileage-based replacement interval, as belt life can vary significantly based on driving conditions and environment. It's more about condition-based replacement. Look for the signs of wear outlined below.

Signs of a Failing Belt or Tensioner

Ignoring a failing serpentine belt or tensioner can lead to inconvenient breakdowns and potentially more severe engine damage, as the belt drives critical components like the alternator, water pump, and A/C compressor.

Signs of a Failing Serpentine Belt:

• Squealing or Chirping Noises: This is one of the most common indicators, especially on cold starts or when turning the steering wheel (if it drives the power steering pump).
• Cracks or Fraying: Visible cracks, splits, or frayed edges on the belt surface are clear signs of wear.
• Missing Ribs or Chunks: If portions of the belt's ribs are missing, it needs immediate replacement.
• Glazing/Shininess: A shiny, glazed appearance on the belt can indicate slippage.
• Stretching: While harder to visually confirm, an old belt can stretch, leading to reduced tension.
• Loss of Power Steering, A/C, or Charging System Issues: If the belt completely breaks, these systems will cease to function.

Signs of a Failing Automatic Tensioner:

• Belt Slippage: If the belt appears to be slipping, even after replacement, the tensioner might not be applying adequate force.
• Thumping or Knocking Noise: A worn tensioner can make mechanical noises.
• Vibration: Excessive vibration from the tensioner pulley or arm.
• Visible Play or Wobble: The tensioner pulley should ideally remain steady. If it wobbles excessively while the engine is running or has noticeable play when trying to move it by hand (engine off!), it may be failing.
• Rust or Corrosion: Visible rust or corrosion around the tensioner's pivot point.

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