2020 Honda Odyssey Fuse Box Diagram & Amperage

Quick Answer

The 2020 Honda Odyssey has three main fuse box locations:

• Under-hood Fuse Box: Located in the engine compartment, usually near the battery.
• Driver's Side Dash Fuse Box: Located on the driver's side, behind a cover on the kick panel.
• Cargo Area Fuse Box: Located in the rear cargo area, often behind a trim panel on the driver's side.

---

Under-hood Fuse Box

This fuse box is the primary distribution point for major electrical components and high-current circuits. It also houses many relays.

Note: Fuse locations and amperages can vary slightly by trim level. Always refer to the fuse diagram printed on the inside of your fuse box lid for the most accurate information.

Fuse #	Amp	Color	Circuit / Component Protected
1	30A	Green	ABS Pump Motor
2	20A	Yellow	ABS Failsafe
3	30A	Green	Main Fan Motor
4	30A	Green	Sub Fan Motor
5	20A	Yellow	A/C Compressor Clutch
6	15A	Blue	Ignition Coils
7	15A	Blue	Fuel Pump (PGM-FI Main)
8	10A	Red	ECM/PCM (Main)
9	20A	Yellow	Headlight (Low Beam - Left)
10	20A	Yellow	Headlight (Low Beam - Right)
11	10A	Red	Headlight (High Beam - Left)
12	10A	Red	Headlight (High Beam - Right)
13	40A	Green	Blower Motor (Front)
14	20A	Yellow	Starter Signal
15	10A	Red	SRS (Airbag System)
16	15A	Blue	Horn
17	10A	Red	Brake Pedal Switch
18	20A	Yellow	Audio System
19	15A	Blue	Backup Lights
20	10A	Red	Taillights/Parking Lights (Left)
21	10A	Red	Taillights/Parking Lights (Right)
22	7.5A	Brown	ACC (Accessory)
23	50A	Red	EPS (Electric Power Steering)
24	40A	Green	Power Window (Driver)
25	40A	Green	Power Window (Passenger)

Relay Locations (Under-hood):

The under-hood fuse box also contains several relays that switch power to high-current components. Common relays include:

• Main Relay: Often for the ECM/PCM and fuel pump.
• Fuel Pump Relay: Controls power to the fuel pump.
• Starter Cut Relay: Engages the starter motor.
• A/C Compressor Clutch Relay: Engages the A/C compressor.
• Headlight Relays: Separate relays for high and low beams.
• Cooling Fan Relays: Control the engine cooling fans.

---

Driver's Side Dash Fuse Box

This fuse box primarily handles interior electrical components, accessories, and some body control systems.

Note: Fuse locations and amperages can vary slightly by trim level. Always refer to the fuse diagram printed on the inside of your fuse box lid for the most accurate information.

Fuse #	Amp	Color	Circuit / Component Protected
1	10A	Red	Meter / Gauge Cluster
2	7.5A	Brown	SRS Indicator / Airbag
3	15A	Blue	Audio Unit / Display Audio
4	10A	Red	Accessory Socket (Front) / Cigar Lighter
5	10A	Red	Wipers (Front)
6	7.5A	Brown	Power Windows Switch
7	10A	Red	Turn Signals / Hazard Lights
8	15A	Blue	Door Locks (Driver)
9	15A	Blue	Door Locks (Passenger)
10	15A	Blue	Body Control Module (BCM)
11	7.5A	Brown	TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System)
12	10A	Red	Rearview Camera
13	10A	Red	USB Ports (Front)
14	7.5A	Brown	HVAC Control Unit
15	10A	Red	Seat Heater (Driver)
16	10A	Red	Seat Heater (Passenger)
17	20A	Yellow	Power Sliding Door (Left)
18	20A	Yellow	Power Sliding Door (Right)
19	10A	Red	Interior Lights
20	7.5A	Brown	Keyless Access System

---

Cargo Area Fuse Box

This fuse box is typically located on the driver's side of the cargo area, behind a removable trim panel. It handles power for rear-specific components and often includes circuits for trailer towing if equipped.

Note: Fuse locations and amperages can vary slightly by trim level, especially with towing packages. Always refer to the fuse diagram printed on the inside of your fuse box lid for the most accurate information.

Fuse #	Amp	Color	Circuit / Component Protected
1	15A	Blue	Accessory Socket (Cargo)
2	10A	Red	Trunk Opener Motor
3	10A	Red	Washer Motor (Rear)
4	15A	Blue	Rear HVAC Blower
5	20A	Yellow	Power Tailgate
6	30A	Green	Trailer Brake Controller (if equipped)
7	10A	Red	Trailer Running Lights (if equipped)
8	15A	Blue	Trailer Turn/Stop Lights (if equipped)
9	20A	Yellow	Inverter (115V AC Outlet)
10	7.5A	Brown	Rear Entertainment System

---

How to Test a Fuse

Testing a fuse is a straightforward process that can help diagnose electrical issues. You'll need a fuse puller (usually found in the fuse box lid) and a multimeter or a fuse tester.

1. Safety First: Ensure the ignition is off and the vehicle is cool before working with fuses.
2. Locate the Fuse: Identify the suspected fuse using the diagrams above and your vehicle's fuse box legend.
3. Remove the Fuse: Use the fuse puller to carefully remove the fuse from its slot. Never use metal tools that could short the circuit.
4. Visual Inspection: Hold the fuse up to the light. If the metal wire inside is broken or melted, the fuse is blown and needs to be replaced.
5. Test with a Multimeter (Continuity Test):
   • Set your multimeter to the continuity setting (often represented by a speaker or diode symbol).
   • Touch one probe to each metal blade of the fuse.
   • If the multimeter beeps or shows a reading close to zero ohms, the fuse is good. If there's no beep or no reading, the fuse is blown.
6. Test with a Fuse Tester:
   • Insert the fuse into the fuse tester.
   • If the tester lights up (or gives an audible signal), the fuse is good. If not, it's blown.
7. Replace the Fuse: Always replace a blown fuse with a new one of the exact same amperage rating and color. Using a fuse with a higher amperage can lead to serious electrical damage or fire.

---

Common Blown Fuses on This Vehicle

While any fuse can blow, some circuits are more prone to issues due to the components they protect or common user habits.

• Cigar Lighter / 12V Accessory Outlets (Dash #4, Cargo #1): These are frequently blown due to plugging in high-power accessories or faulty devices that create a short circuit. If your phone charger or air pump stops working, check these first.
• Audio System / Infotainment (Under-hood #18, Dash #3): Issues with aftermarket audio installations or internal shorts in the head unit can cause these fuses to blow, leading to no sound or a blank screen.
• Blower Motor (Under-hood #13, Cargo #4): If your cabin fan stops working entirely, a blown blower motor fuse or a faulty blower motor resistor is a common culprit. A failing blower motor can draw excessive current and pop the fuse.
• Headlights (Under-hood #9, #10, #11, #12): While modern bulbs are more robust, short circuits in the wiring or faulty bulbs can occasionally cause headlight fuses to blow. If one headlight goes out, check its dedicated fuse.
• Power Sliding Doors (Dash #17, #18): These high-current circuits can sometimes blow if there's an obstruction in the door's path, an issue with the door motor, or wiring damage.

What to Check First:

If an electrical component stops working, always check the relevant fuse first. Before replacing a fuse, consider what might have caused it to blow. If a newly replaced fuse blows immediately, there's likely an underlying problem such as a short circuit or an overloaded component that needs professional diagnosis.

---

Find a trusted shop on Repairius.