2019 Jeep Cherokee Fuse Box Diagram & Amperage

Quick Answer

The 2019 Jeep Cherokee features three main fuse box locations: one under the hood, one in the passenger cabin (behind the passenger kick panel), and one in the rear cargo area.

Under-Hood Fuse Box (Power Distribution Center - PDC)

The Power Distribution Center (PDC) is located in the engine bay, on the passenger side of the vehicle, near the battery. It contains high-current fuses and relays for major electrical components. Always disconnect the battery's negative terminal before servicing fuses in this box.

Relay Locations (Under-Hood PDC):

• R1: Fuel Pump Relay
• R2: Starter Relay
• R3: A/C Clutch Relay
• R4: Radiator Fan Relay
• R5: Headlamp Low Beam Relay
• R6: Headlamp High Beam Relay

Passenger Cabin Fuse Box (Behind Kick Panel)

This fuse box is located behind the passenger side kick panel, typically accessible after removing a small access cover. It houses fuses for various interior electrical components and accessories.

Rear Cargo Area Fuse Box

Some trims of the 2019 Jeep Cherokee may include an additional fuse box in the rear cargo area, often located behind a trim panel on the driver's or passenger's side. This box typically covers components in the rear of the vehicle, such as the rear power outlet, power liftgate, or trailer wiring.

Note on Trim Variations: Fuse assignments can vary slightly between different trim levels (e.g., Latitude, Limited, Trailhawk, Overland) and optional equipment. Always consult the fuse box diagram printed on the inside of your fuse box lid or your owner's manual for the most accurate and up-to-date information for your specific vehicle.

How to Test a Fuse

Testing a fuse is a straightforward process. You will need a fuse puller (usually found in the under-hood fuse box or with the spare fuses) and a multimeter or a fuse tester.

1. Locate the Fuse: Refer to the appropriate fuse box diagram to find the suspected fuse.
2. Turn Off the Vehicle: Ensure the ignition is off and all accessories are turned off. For under-hood fuses, it's recommended to disconnect the battery's negative terminal.
3. Remove the Fuse: Use the fuse puller to carefully extract the fuse from its slot.
4. Visually Inspect: Many fuses are transparent, allowing you to see if the metal wire inside is broken (blown). If it's broken, the fuse is blown and needs replacement.
5. Test with a Multimeter (Optional but Recommended): Set your multimeter to the continuity setting. Touch one probe to each metal terminal on top of the fuse. If the multimeter beeps or shows a reading close to zero ohms, the fuse is good. If there's no beep or an "OL" (open circuit) reading, the fuse is blown.
6. Replace the Fuse: If the fuse is blown, replace it with a new fuse of the exact same amperage rating and type. Never use a fuse with a higher amperage rating, as this can lead to serious electrical damage or fire.

Common Blown Fuses on This Vehicle

While any fuse can blow, some are more commonly affected due to their circuits or frequent use. If you're experiencing a sudden electrical issue, these are good places to start your diagnostics:

• Cigar Lighter/12V Outlets (F31, F32, F50): These fuses frequently blow due to overloading from charging multiple devices or using high-power accessories. Check for frayed cords or faulty devices plugged into the outlets.
• Blower Motor (F06, F18): Problems with the HVAC system, such as a non-functioning blower fan, often point to a blown fuse for the blower motor or its relay. A failing blower motor can draw excessive current.
• Radio/Infotainment (F30): If your radio or infotainment system suddenly goes dead, check this fuse. A short circuit in an aftermarket accessory or a faulty head unit can cause it to blow.
• Headlights (F07, F08, F09, F10): While less common with modern sealed units, a short in the wiring or a faulty bulb (especially in older vehicles or those with aftermarket HID/LED kits) can sometimes blow a headlamp fuse.
• Trailer Brake/Tow (F21, F52): If you frequently tow, issues with trailer wiring, a trailer brake controller, or a short in the trailer itself can cause these fuses to blow. Inspect your trailer's wiring harness for any damage.

Before replacing a fuse, try to identify the cause of the blown fuse. Simply replacing a fuse without addressing the underlying issue will likely result in the new fuse blowing again.

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