2017 Ram 1500 Serpentine Belt: Routing, Replacement, and Part Numbers

Quick Answer

For your 2017 Ram 1500, the serpentine belt system can vary based on the engine option. We'll focus on the most common configurations, but always verify your specific engine.

• Belt Length: Varies by engine (approx. 90-100 inches)
• Rib Count: 6-rib
• OEM Belt PN (5.7L HEMI): 04891783AC
• Aftermarket Cross-Reference (5.7L HEMI):
  • Gates: K060907 (or similar, verify per application)
  • Dayco: 5060907 (or similar, verify per application)
  • Continental Elite: 4060907 (or similar, verify per application)
• Auto-Tensioner PN (5.7L HEMI): 53013896AF
• Idler Pulley PN (5.7L HEMI): 04891739AB

Belt Routing

The serpentine belt on your 2017 Ram 1500 is crucial for powering accessories like the alternator, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, and water pump. Before you begin any work, take a clear photograph of your existing belt routing! This will be an invaluable reference during reinstallation.

Here's a common routing path for the 5.7L HEMI engine:

1. Starting from the crankshaft pulley (the large pulley at the bottom, directly connected to the engine).
2. The belt then travels up and around the A/C compressor pulley.
3. From the A/C compressor, it goes to an idler pulley (a smooth pulley that guides the belt).
4. Next, the belt moves to the alternator pulley (typically located high on the engine, responsible for generating electricity).
5. From the alternator, it routes down to the power steering pump pulley.
6. The belt then goes up to the water pump pulley (responsible for circulating coolant).
7. Finally, it loops around the automatic tensioner pulley before returning to the crankshaft pulley, completing the path.

Note: This description is a general guide. Specific routing can vary slightly based on your engine and optional equipment. Always refer to your vehicle's service manual or an under-hood diagram if available.

How to Replace the Serpentine Belt

Replacing the serpentine belt on your 2017 Ram 1500 can be a DIY task if you're comfortable with basic hand tools. The primary tool you'll need is a serpentine belt tool or a long 3/8-inch drive breaker bar (or ratchet) to release the tension on the automatic tensioner.

1. Safety First: Ensure the engine is off and cool. Disconnect the negative battery terminal to prevent accidental starting.
2. Locate the Tensioner: Identify the automatic belt tensioner. It will have a square hole designed for a 3/8-inch drive tool.
3. Release Tension: Insert your serpentine belt tool or breaker bar into the square hole on the tensioner. Rotate the tensioner to relieve tension on the belt. This will allow you to slip the belt off the pulleys.
4. Remove Old Belt: Carefully remove the old belt from all pulleys, paying close attention to how it was routed (refer to your photo!).
5. Inspect Pulleys: While the belt is off, inspect all pulleys for any signs of wear, wobbling, or excessive play. Check the idler pulley and tensioner pulley especially, as these are common failure points.
6. Install New Belt: Route the new belt exactly as the old one was, following your reference photo or the diagram. Ensure the ribs of the belt are properly seated in the grooves of all ribbed pulleys.
7. Re-tension: Once the belt is correctly routed over all pulleys except one (often the idler or a smooth pulley that's easy to slip it over), re-apply tension using your tool on the tensioner. Slip the belt over the final pulley.
8. Verify Routing: Double-check that the belt is correctly seated on all pulleys and that the routing matches the diagram or your photo.
9. Reconnect Battery: Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
10. Test: Start the engine and listen for any abnormal noises. Observe the belt's operation for a few minutes to ensure it's running smoothly.

Replacement Interval

Most manufacturers recommend inspecting the serpentine belt at every oil change and replacing it between 60,000 to 100,000 miles, or every 5-7 years, whichever comes first. However, severe driving conditions or the visual signs of wear can necessitate earlier replacement. It's also a good idea to consider replacing the automatic tensioner and idler pulley(s) when you replace the belt, as these components often wear out around the same time and can cause premature belt failure if neglected.

Signs of a Failing Belt or Tensioner

Don't wait for a complete belt failure, which can leave you stranded. Be aware of these warning signs:

• Squealing or Chirping Noises: A common sign of a worn, loose, or misaligned belt. It could also indicate a failing pulley bearing.
• Cracks, Fraying, or Glazing on the Belt: Visually inspect the belt for damage. Cracks on the ribbed side, fraying edges, or a shiny, glazed appearance on the ribbed or smooth side are clear indicators it needs replacement.
• Loss of Power Steering, A/C, or Charging System Failure: If the belt breaks, these systems will immediately stop working.
• Engine Overheating: A broken belt means the water pump won't circulate coolant, leading to rapid overheating.
• Automatic Tensioner Movement: Excessive vibration or bouncing of the tensioner arm while the engine is running can indicate a weak tensioner spring or worn internal components. A failing tensioner may also not apply enough pressure, leading to belt slip.

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