2016 Tesla Model S Bulb Sizes (Headlight, Tail, Fog)

The 2016 Tesla Model S is a unique vehicle when it comes to automotive lighting. As a premium electric vehicle, Tesla utilized advanced lighting technology right from the factory. Notably, 2016 was a transition year for the Model S, introducing a major design "refresh" that eliminated the faux front grille (nose cone) and upgraded the headlight systems. Because of this, knowing your exact build date and trim is crucial when looking for replacement bulbs.

Below is your comprehensive guide to the 2016 Tesla Model S bulb sizes, covering both pre-facelift and post-facelift variations.

Quick reference

Note: The vast majority of exterior and interior lighting on the 2016 Tesla Model S consists of integrated LED circuit boards built directly into the housing assemblies. These are not traditional plug-and-play replaceable bulbs.

Trim-Level and Generation Differences

The most critical distinction for a 2016 Model S owner is whether you have a pre-facelift or a post-facelift (refresh) model:

• Pre-Facelift (Classic Nose Cone): These models feature a 25W D8S High-Intensity Discharge (HID/Xenon) bulb for both the low and high beams, operating via a mechanical shutter system (Bi-Xenon). The DRL signature light is LED.
• Post-Facelift (Refresh): Models built after April 2016 feature fully integrated LED adaptive headlights. There are no replaceable headlight bulbs in these units; if a diode fails, the entire headlight assembly must be replaced.

Almost all other lights on the vehicle—fogs, tail lights, turn signals, and interior puddle/dome lights—are factory LED assemblies across all 2016 trims (70, 70D, 90D, P90D, P100D, etc.).

LED vs HID Upgrade Considerations

Because the 2016 Model S is already heavily equipped with LEDs, there are few traditional "halogen to LED" upgrades to perform. However, for pre-refresh owners with D8S HID headlights, you might consider upgrading to higher-output D8S HID bulbs or specialized D8S-to-LED conversion kits.

• CANBUS Systems: Teslas have extremely sensitive electrical architecture. If you attempt to install aftermarket LEDs in place of the factory HIDs, the car's computer may detect a voltage irregularity, leading to flickering or error messages on the MCU (Media Control Unit). Ensure any LED kit is explicitly rated as CANBUS-error-free for Tesla.
• Ballast Bypass: Converting from D8S HID to LED often requires bypassing the factory HID ballast or using a bulb specifically designed to plug directly into the OEM ballast.

How to replace each bulb

Since most lights are sealed assemblies, "replacing a bulb" usually means replacing an entire module. Here are a few tips:

• Headlight Low/High Beam (D8S HID): Accessing the D8S bulb requires removing the front wheel and peeling back the inner fender liner to access the rear of the headlight housing. Disconnect the high-voltage ballast cable before twisting the bulb out. Always wear gloves to avoid getting skin oils on the new Xenon glass.
• Tail Lights / Brake Lights: These are integrated LED modules. If a section of your tail light goes out, you must remove the trunk interior trim to unbolt and replace the whole tail light housing.
• Interior / Puddle Lights: Many owners upgrade the factory LED puddle lights (under the doors) or trunk lights to brighter aftermarket LED modules. These can typically be carefully popped out with a plastic trim tool and unplugged via a simple pigtail connector.
• Fog Lights: Fog light replacement requires accessing the lower front bumper fascia. It is often easier to remove the bumper entirely to unbolt the sealed LED fog modules.

Common lighting issues for this generation

The 2016 Model S is known for a few specific lighting quirks:

• Headlight DRL "Eyebrow" Burnout: On pre-refresh models, the LED daytime running light strip (the "eyebrow") is notoriously prone to burning out or yellowing due to heat degradation. Tesla does not sell the DRL strip separately; the fix is usually replacing the entire headlight assembly.
• Condensation in Tail Lights: It is incredibly common for the inner and outer tail light housings to develop severe condensation or water pooling. While Tesla states that light condensation is normal, actual water pooling requires replacing the affected housing to prevent electrical shorts.
• HID Ballast Failure: Pre-refresh models occasionally suffer from ballast failure, resulting in a completely dead headlight. If a new D8S bulb doesn't fix the issue, the ballast mounted beneath the headlight is likely the culprit.

If you are dealing with complex lighting electrical issues, dead DRLs, or need a full headlight assembly replaced and calibrated, don't leave it to chance. Find a trusted shop on Repairius.