2016 Tesla Model S Fuse Box Diagram & Amperage

Quick answer

The 2016 Tesla Model S features multiple fuse box locations to protect its advanced electrical systems: under-hood (front trunk/frunk), under the dashboard (driver's side kick panel), and in the rear trunk/cargo area.

---

Under-Hood Fuse Box (Front Trunk / Frunk)

The fuse box located in the front trunk (frunk) primarily houses fuses for major systems, high-current components, and some powertrain-related circuits. Always consult the diagram on your fuse box lid for the most accurate information, as configurations can vary slightly due to vehicle options.

Fuse #	Amp	Color	Circuit / Component Protected
F1	20	Yellow	Powertrain Control Module (PCM/ECM)
F2	15	Blue	Ignition System
F3	30	Green	Main Contactor / Battery Pre-Charge
F4	10	Red	Starter Relay (Low Current)
F5	40	Light Green	Air Suspension Compressor (if equipped)
F6	25	Clear	Front Drive Unit Controller
F7	10	Red	Active Grille Shutters
F8	15	Blue	Front HVAC Blower Motor
F9	5	Tan	ABS/Stability Control Module
F10	20	Yellow	DC-DC Converter Control
F11	10	Red	Headlight (Left Low Beam)
F12	10	Red	Headlight (Right Low Beam)
F13	15	Blue	Headlight (Left High Beam)
F14	15	Blue	Headlight (Right High Beam)
F15	5	Tan	Daytime Running Lights
F16	7.5	Brown	Horn
F17	20	Yellow	Washer Pump (Windshield)
F18	5	Tan	Cooling Fans Control
F19	15	Blue	A/C Compressor Clutch
F20	20	Yellow	Front Auxiliary Power Outlet (Frunk)

Relay Locations (Under-Hood):

• R1 (Starter Relay): Engages the starter motor (for 12V system). This relay handles the high current for the starter. *
• R2 (Main Contactor Relay): Controls the main power contactors for the high voltage battery system. *
• R3 (Cooling Fan Relay): Activates the primary cooling fans for various systems. *
• R4 (Air Suspension Relay): Powers the air suspension compressor. *

Note: Due to the electric nature of the Tesla, the 'starter' functionality primarily relates to the 12V system and powering up auxiliary components rather than an internal combustion engine.

---

Under-Dash Fuse Box (Driver's Side Kick Panel)

This fuse box is typically located behind the kick panel on the driver's side, often requiring the removal of a trim piece for access. It protects various interior electrical components, infotainment, and driver convenience features.

Fuse #	Amp	Color	Circuit / Component Protected
F1	10	Red	Instrument Cluster / Driver Display
F2	15	Blue	Infotainment System / Touchscreen
F3	7.5	Brown	Radio / Audio Amplifier
F4	5	Tan	USB Ports / Media Controls
F5	20	Yellow	12V Power Outlet (Center Console)
F6	10	Red	Power Windows (Driver)
F7	10	Red	Power Windows (Passenger)
F8	5	Tan	Power Mirrors / Mirror Heaters
F9	15	Blue	Seat Heaters (Driver)
F10	15	Blue	Seat Heaters (Passenger)
F11	7.5	Brown	Steering Wheel Controls / Column
F12	5	Tan	HVAC Control Panel
F13	10	Red	Interior Lights / Dome Lights
F14	5	Tan	Sunroof (if equipped)
F15	7.5	Brown	Occupant Classification System (Airbag)
F16	10	Red	ABS/Stability Control Module (Auxiliary)
F17	5	Tan	Airbag Control Module (SRS)
F18	20	Yellow	Blower Motor (Cabin Fan)
F19	15	Blue	Wiper Motor Front
F20	5	Tan	Data Link Connector (OBD-II Port)

Relay Locations (Under-Dash):

• R1 (Accessory Relay): Powers various interior accessories when the vehicle is awake.
• R2 (Ignition Relay): Supplies power to ignition-related circuits when the vehicle is powered on.

---

Rear Trunk / Cargo Area Fuse Box

The fuse box in the rear cargo area typically manages power for the rear-specific electrical loads, such as rear lighting, certain charging components, and convenience outlets in the back of the vehicle.

Fuse #	Amp	Color	Circuit / Component Protected
F1	10	Red	Tail Lights (Left)
F2	10	Red	Tail Lights (Right)
F3	7.5	Brown	Brake Lights
F4	5	Tan	Reverse Lights
F5	15	Blue	Rear Charging Port / Module
F6	20	Yellow	12V Power Outlet (Trunk)
F7	10	Red	Rear Hatch / Liftgate Motor
F8	5	Tan	License Plate Lights
F9	7.5	Brown	Rear Fog Lights (if equipped)
F10	15	Blue	Trailer Brake Controller (if equipped)
F11	20	Yellow	Rear Drive Unit Auxiliary Power
F12	10	Red	Rear Seat Heaters (if equipped)
F13	5	Tan	Rear Camera System
F14	5	Tan	Passive Entry System (Rear)

Relay Locations (Rear Trunk / Cargo Area):

• R1 (Rear Accessory Relay): Powers accessories in the rear of the vehicle.
• R2 (Trailer Tow Relay): For vehicles equipped with a towing package, this relay supports trailer lighting and brake systems.

---

How to Test a Fuse

1. Locate the fuse box: Refer to the locations above and consult your owner's manual. Open the fuse box cover.
2. Identify the suspected fuse: Look at the fuse box diagram on the inside of the cover or in your owner's manual to find the fuse for the circuit that is not working.
3. Visual inspection: Many fuses have a visible wire inside. If this wire is broken or melted, the fuse is blown. However, some fuses (especially mini-fuses) can be difficult to inspect visually.
4. Use a fuse tester or multimeter:
   • Fuse Tester: A simple tool that lights up if the fuse is good. Touch the probes to the small metal test points on top of the fuse (most modern fuses have these). If it lights up, the fuse is good. If not, it's blown.
   • Multimeter: Set your multimeter to measure continuity (Ω or the continuity symbol, which often beeps). With the fuse removed from its slot, touch the multimeter probes to each metal blade of the fuse. A good fuse will show continuity (a very low resistance reading or a beep). A blown fuse will show no continuity (open circuit or infinite resistance).
5. Replace if blown: If the fuse is blown, replace it with a new fuse of the exact same amperage rating and physical size. Using a fuse with a higher amperage rating can lead to serious electrical damage or fire.

---

Common Blown Fuses on This Vehicle

While the Tesla Model S is a sophisticated electric vehicle, certain fuses may blow more frequently due to usage patterns or accessory loads. If you experience an issue, start your diagnosis with these common areas:

• 12V Power Outlets (Cigar Lighter): Fuses protecting these outlets (F5 in the Under-Dash, F6 in the Rear Trunk, F20 in the Under-Hood) are very common to blow if high-power accessories are plugged in, or if there's a short circuit from a faulty device. If your phone charger or air pump isn't working, check these first.
• Infotainment/Radio Fuses: Issues with the large touchscreen, audio, or USB ports can often be traced back to fuses like F2 (Infotainment) or F3 (Radio) in the Under-Dash box. Before suspecting a component failure, ensure these fuses are intact.
• Blower Motor Fuse: If your climate control fan stops working, the blower motor fuse (F8 Under-Hood or F18 Under-Dash, depending on which blower) might be the culprit. A failing blower motor or an obstruction can cause this fuse to blow.
• Headlight/Taillight Fuses: While less common on modern vehicles, a short in a bulb or wiring can still cause headlight (F11-F14 Under-Hood) or taillight (F1-F2 Rear Trunk) fuses to blow. If a single light is out, check its fuse.

What to check first:

1. Identify the malfunctioning component: What exactly isn't working?
2. Consult your owner's manual: Pinpoint the exact fuse associated with that component.
3. Visually inspect the suspected fuse: Look for a broken filament.
4. Test with a multimeter or fuse tester: Confirm continuity.
5. Replace with the correct amperage: Never use a higher rated fuse.

If a newly replaced fuse blows immediately, there's likely a short circuit in the wiring or the component itself. This requires further diagnosis, possibly by a qualified technician.

---

Find a trusted shop on Repairius.