2016 Toyota Tundra Fuse Box Diagram & Amperage

If you own a 2016 Toyota Tundra and are experiencing electrical issues—whether it’s a dead 12V outlet, a radio that won’t turn on, or trailer lights that refuse to light up—the very first thing you should check is the fuses. Fuses protect your truck's vital electrical components from power surges and short circuits.

Here is a comprehensive ASE-certified guide to the fuse box diagrams, locations, and amperage ratings for your 2016 Toyota Tundra.

Quick answer: Fuse Box Locations

The 2016 Toyota Tundra features two primary fuse boxes:

1. Engine Compartment Fuse Box: Located under the hood on the passenger side, near the battery. It houses high-amp fuses, relays, and circuits for the engine, towing, and exterior lighting.
2. Passenger Compartment Fuse Box: Located inside the cabin, underneath the driver’s side dashboard/kick-panel area. It controls interior electronics like the radio, 12V outlets, blower motor, and cabin lighting.

(Note: The Tundra does not have a trunk or rear cargo fuse box).

Engine Compartment Fuse Box

To access this fuse box, open the hood and locate the black plastic cover on the passenger side. Press the retaining clips to remove the lid. The underside of the lid usually contains a printed legend, which you should always verify, as configurations can vary slightly depending on your exact trim level (SR, SR5, Limited, Platinum, 1794 Edition) and engine option (4.6L vs. 5.7L).

Here are the most common fuses and relays found in the under-hood fuse box:

Passenger Compartment Fuse Box

The interior fuse box is located beneath the dashboard on the driver's side. You may need to get down on your back and look up under the steering column area to see it. A rectangular plastic cover snaps over the fuses.

How to test a fuse

Testing a fuse on your Tundra is a straightforward process that can save you a trip to the dealership.

1. Locate the suspected fuse: Use the tables above and the legend on the inside of the fuse box cover to find the fuse associated with the failing component.
2. Visual Inspection: Use the white plastic fuse puller (usually located in the engine compartment fuse box) or needle-nose pliers to pull the fuse straight out. Look at the U-shaped wire inside the colored plastic housing. If the wire is broken or charred, the fuse is blown.
3. Use a Test Light or Multimeter: For a faster method, leave the fuses plugged in and turn the ignition key to the "ON" position. Take a 12V test light and touch the probe to the two tiny metal testing points on top of the fuse. If the light illuminates on one side but not the other, the fuse is blown. With a multimeter, test for continuity across the two points; an infinite reading (OL) means the fuse is bad.
4. Replace with the Exact Amperage: Never replace a blown fuse with one of a higher amperage rating. Doing so can cause wiring to overheat and potentially start a fire. Always match the amp rating and color.

Common blown fuses on this vehicle

As an ASE master technician, I've seen hundreds of Tundras come through the bay. Here are the most common electrical faults we trace back to a simple blown fuse on the 2016 models:

• P/OUTLET (15A): By far the most commonly blown fuse. This happens when drivers plug in faulty phone chargers, high-draw air compressors, or heavy-duty inverters into the 12V dash outlets. If your phone won't charge, check this blue 15A fuse in the passenger compartment.
• TOWING (30A) and TOW TAIL (30A): The Tundra is a workhorse, and owners frequently tow utility or travel trailers. Older trailers often have corroded wiring or bad grounds, which will immediately pop the towing fuses under the hood to protect the truck's main harness. Check your trailer wiring before replacing the fuse.
• RADIO (15A): Often pops if aftermarket audio equipment is installed incorrectly or if the Entune infotainment screen experiences a voltage spike.
• TAIL (15A): If your dashboard lights go dark and your tail lights aren't working, this is the culprit. It's usually caused by a shorted bulb socket or damaged trailer wiring harness shorting out the parking light circuit.

If you are replacing a fuse and it blows again immediately, do not keep putting new fuses in. You have a hard short to ground in that circuit that needs professional diagnostic testing.

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