2014 Ford F-150 Key Fob Programming Guide

As a locksmith and ASE-certified electrical technician, I see a lot of 2014 Ford F-150s in the shop. The 12th generation F-150 is a reliable workhorse, but like any vehicle, its key fobs get dropped, worn out, or lost. For the 2014 model year, Ford primarily used an Integrated Keyhead Transmitter (IKT), which combines the remote buttons and the physical key blade into one unit.

Below is your comprehensive guide to programming, replacing, and understanding the key fob for your 2014 Ford F-150.

Quick reference

Item	Detail
FCC ID	CWTWB1U793 (Standard 3 or 4-button IKT)
OEM Fob PN	164-R8070, 164-R8067 (depending on remote start)
Aftermarket Options	Xhorse, KeylessOption, Dorman, ILCO
Battery Type	CR2032
Programmable On-Board?	Yes (Remotes: require 1 key. Transponder: requires 2 working keys)
Cuts Required?	Yes (Standard Ford H92 8-cut profile)

Step-by-step on-board programming

There are two separate systems in your 2014 F-150 key: the keyless entry remote (which locks/unlocks the doors) and the immobilizer transponder (which actually starts the engine).

Part 1: Programming the Remote (Keyless Entry)

If you only need to program the buttons to lock and unlock the doors, you can do this with just one working key.

1. Get in the truck and close all doors.
2. Insert your existing working key into the ignition.
3. Turn the ignition from OFF to RUN (do not start the engine) 8 times in rapid succession, ending in the RUN position. This must be done within 10 seconds.
4. The door locks will cycle (lock and unlock) to confirm the truck is in programming mode.
5. Within 20 seconds, press any button on the new key fob. The door locks will cycle again to confirm the fob was accepted.
6. If you have additional fobs (including the original), press a button on each of them within 20 seconds of each other.
7. Turn the ignition OFF. The locks will cycle one last time to indicate programming is complete.

Part 2: Programming the Transponder (Engine Immobilizer)

To program a new key to actually start the engine DIY, Ford's PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System) requires you to have two existing, pre-programmed working keys. If you only have one, skip to the sections below.

1. Insert the first working key into the ignition and turn it to the RUN position for 3 seconds.
2. Turn it OFF and remove the first key.
3. Within 10 seconds, insert the second working key and turn it to RUN for 3 seconds.
4. Turn it OFF and remove the second key.
5. Within 10 seconds, insert the new, uncut or cut key and turn it to RUN.
6. Leave it in the RUN position for 3 to 5 seconds. If successful, the security light on the dash will illuminate for a few seconds and then go out, meaning the key is now programmed to start the engine.

Battery replacement

If your range is getting weak or the buttons only work sporadically, a dead battery is the most likely culprit.

1. Flip the key over so the buttons are facing down.
2. Look for the small seam where the two halves of the plastic key head meet.
3. Insert a flathead screwdriver into the notch at the bottom (near the key ring loop) and gently twist to pry the fob apart.
4. Remove the old CR2032 battery.
5. Insert the new CR2032 battery with the positive (+) side facing up.
6. Snap the two halves of the key shell back together.

Where to buy a replacement fob

When getting a new fob, you have three main avenues, each with its own pros and cons:

• Dealership: Going to a Ford dealer guarantees you get an OEM part (like the 164-R8070). The downside? It's expensive. Expect to pay between $150 and $250 for the key, plus another $100 to $150 for cutting and programming.
• Local Locksmith: An automotive locksmith can supply either OEM or high-quality aftermarket keys. They typically charge 30% to 50% less than the dealership and can often come directly to you. Expect a total cost of $120 to $200, cut and programmed.
• Amazon / Online Retailers: You can find aftermarket keys online for $15 to $40. The pros are obvious—it’s dirt cheap. The cons are that the internal electronics can be hit-or-miss, and you still have to pay someone to cut the physical blade. Furthermore, some locksmiths refuse to program customer-supplied keys because they cannot guarantee the aftermarket transponder chip will work.

If on-board programming isn't supported

If you have lost all your keys, or you only have one working key, you cannot perform the DIY transponder programming. Your 2014 F-150 uses a Texas Crypto 80-Bit transponder chip (often marked with an "SA" stamped on the key blade).

To add a second key when only one is present, an automotive locksmith or dealer must connect a diagnostic scan tool to the truck's OBD-II port. The computer will bypass the two-key requirement and securely pair the new transponder to the truck's instrument cluster and PCM. If you've lost all keys entirely, the technician will have to clear the system's memory and generate two new keys from scratch, which will run you anywhere from $200 to $350 depending on your location.

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