2015 Ford F-150 Fuse Box Diagram & Amperage Guide

As an ASE-certified master technician, I’ve spent countless hours diagnosing electrical issues on modern trucks. The 2015 Ford F-150 is a powerhouse of technology, but all those computers, sensors, and accessories rely on a network of fuses and relays to stay protected. Whether your SYNC infotainment screen just went black, your trailer brakes aren't engaging, or your fuel pump won't prime, knowing exactly where to look can save you time, money, and a massive headache.

Below is your comprehensive guide to the fuse box diagrams and amperage ratings for the 2015 Ford F-150. Note: Fuse configurations can vary based on your truck's trim level, engine (e.g., 2.7L EcoBoost, 3.5L EcoBoost, 5.0L V8), and optional packages. Always verify the printed legend on the inside of your specific fuse box lid before replacing a fuse.

Quick Answer: 2015 Ford F-150 Fuse Box Locations

The 2015 Ford F-150 utilizes two main fuse boxes to distribute power throughout the vehicle. There is no trunk or cargo fuse box on this model.

1. Under-Hood (Battery Junction Box): Located in the engine compartment on the passenger side, right behind the battery and the air intake duct. This box handles high-draw components like the ABS, starter, fuel pump, and trailer towing circuits.
2. Passenger Compartment (Body Control Module): Located inside the cabin on the passenger side. You will find it behind the passenger side kick panel (the plastic trim panel near the passenger’s right foot). This panel controls interior accessories, the radio, airbags, and lighting.

Under-Hood Power Distribution Box (Battery Junction Box)

This fuse block handles the heavy lifting for the engine, powertrain, and towing accessories. Be extremely careful when working in this box, and always ensure the ignition is fully OFF before pulling a high-amp cartridge fuse or relay.

Note: The high-amp fuses (30A+) are typically cartridge-style (J-case) fuses, while the lower amp ones are mini blade fuses.

Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel (Kick Panel)

The interior fuse box is integrated into the Body Control Module (BCM). To access it, pull off the passenger side kick panel trim piece. You will see a small plastic cover over the fuses. Squeeze the tabs to remove the cover.

How to Test a Fuse

Before you start replacing parts, you need to verify if the fuse has actually blown. Do not simply replace a fuse with a higher amperage rating—this is a massive fire hazard and can permanently destroy your truck's wiring harness!

1. Visual Inspection: Pull the fuse using a fuse puller or needle-nose pliers. Hold the fuse up to a light source. Look at the U-shaped metal wire inside the plastic casing. If the wire is broken, burned, or melted, the fuse is blown and must be replaced with the exact same amperage and color.

2. Using a Test Light (Recommended): You don't even need to pull the fuse for this method.

• Ground the clip of your 12V test light to a good, bare metal ground on the chassis.
• Turn the ignition to the ON position (engine off).
• Touch the probe to the small metal test points exposed on the top of the fuse.
• If the light illuminates on both sides of the fuse, it is good. If it lights up on one side but not the other, the fuse is blown.

3. Using a Digital Multimeter: Set your multimeter to the continuity setting (the one that beeps) or the lowest Ohms (resistance) setting. Touch the probes to both metal prongs of a removed fuse. A continuous beep or a reading near 0.0 ohms means the fuse is intact. "OL" (Open Loop) or no beep means the fuse is blown.

Common Blown Fuses on this Vehicle

In the shop, we see a few specific circuits blow fuses on the 2015 F-150 more often than others:

• Trailer Tow Fuses (BJB #11, #14): F-150s are workhorses. If a trailer you hook up has faulty wiring, a short to ground, or corroded lighting connectors, it will instantly pop your trailer tow park lamp or brake controller fuses. Always check the trailer plug wiring before replacing these fuses.
• 12V Power Points / Cigar Lighter: If you plug in a faulty phone charger, a heavy-draw air compressor, or drop a coin into the 12V accessory socket, the fuse will blow. (Check the BJB manual for specific power point fuse locations, as they are broken down by front, rear, and center console depending on trim, usually in the #89-#92 range).
• SYNC / Infotainment System (BCM #32): Occasionally, the SYNC module will freeze or glitch out. While not necessarily a "blown" fuse, technicians often pull Fuse 32 in the kick panel for 5 minutes to force a hard reset of the radio and SYNC modules without having to disconnect the main battery.

Electrical problems can be deeply frustrating, and a blown fuse is often a symptom of a larger underlying short circuit. If a fuse keeps blowing immediately after you replace it, you have a dead short that requires professional diagnostic equipment.

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