2016 Ford F-150 Fuse Box Diagram & Amperage

Quick Answer

The 2016 Ford F-150 has three main fuse box locations:

• Under-hood Power Distribution Box: Located in the engine compartment, typically near the battery on the passenger side.
• Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel: Located behind a panel on the passenger side kick panel.
• Rear Power Distribution Box: Located in the cargo area/trunk, usually behind a trim panel on the passenger side.

Under-hood Power Distribution Box

The power distribution box in the engine compartment contains high-current fuses and relays for major electrical components. Always verify the exact fuse layout with the diagram on your fuse box lid, as variations can occur based on trim level and options.

Relay Locations (Under-hood):

• R1: Starter Relay
• R2: Fuel Pump Relay
• R3: PCM Relay
• R4: A/C Clutch Relay
• R5: Blower Motor Relay
• R6: High Beam Headlamp Relay
• R7: Low Beam Headlamp Relay
• R8: Trailer Tow Park Lamp Relay

Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel

This fuse panel is located behind the kick panel on the passenger side of the cabin. It contains fuses for various interior electrical components and accessories. Remove the access panel to view the fuses. Always consult your owner's manual and the fuse panel cover diagram for the most accurate information.

Rear Power Distribution Box (Cargo Area)

Some 2016 F-150 models, particularly those with specific towing packages or higher trim levels, may have a rear power distribution box. This box typically houses fuses and relays for trailer connections and other rear-specific accessories. This box is usually located behind a trim panel in the cargo area, often on the passenger side.

Relay Locations (Rear Power Distribution Box):

• R1: Trailer Battery Charge Relay
• R2: Trailer Backup Lamp Relay
• R3: Rear Window Defroster Relay

How to Test a Fuse

Testing a fuse is a straightforward process that can save you time and money. Here's how:

1. Locate the Fuse Box: Refer to the "Quick Answer" section above to find the correct fuse box for the circuit you're troubleshooting.
2. Identify the Suspect Fuse: Consult the fuse diagram on the fuse box lid or in your owner's manual to find the fuse for the component that isn't working.
3. Visual Inspection: Most fuses are transparent, allowing you to visually check the metal wire inside. If the wire is broken or melted, the fuse is blown. Automotive mini-fuses often have a small color-coded plastic housing. If you can clearly see a gap in the metal strip, it's blown.
4. Use a Fuse Tester (Recommended): For a more reliable test, use a fuse tester or a multimeter. With the ignition off, touch the probes of the tester to the two small metal test points on the top of the fuse. If the fuse is good, the tester will light up or the multimeter will show continuity (a reading close to zero ohms).
5. Remove and Replace: If the fuse is blown, carefully pull it out using the fuse puller tool usually found in the fuse box or a pair of needle-nose pliers. Replace it with a new fuse of the exact same amperage rating and color. Never replace a fuse with one of a higher amperage, as this can cause serious electrical damage or fire.

Common Blown Fuses on This Vehicle

While any fuse can blow, some are more commonly encountered on a 2016 Ford F-150 due to their frequent use or typical operating conditions. If you experience an electrical issue, these are good places to start your investigation:

• Cigar Lighter/Auxiliary Power Outlets (Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel F2, F3): These fuses often blow due to overloading with multiple accessories or faulty chargers. If your phone charger or other portable device stops working, check these first. Ensure your devices are not drawing too much power.
• Trailer Tow Fuses (Under-hood F13, F14, F15, F16 and Rear Power Distribution Box F1, F2, F5): The electrical system for trailers can be complex. Issues with trailer wiring, short circuits in a trailer's lights, or overloaded trailer accessories can cause these fuses to blow. If you're experiencing problems with your trailer lights or integrated brake controller, start by inspecting these fuses and the trailer's wiring harness.
• Blower Motor Fuse (Under-hood F5): If your HVAC fan stops working on all settings, this is a likely culprit. A failing blower motor or an obstructed fan can cause the motor to draw too much current, leading to the fuse blowing. If replacing the fuse doesn't fix it, inspect the blower motor for obstructions or test its operation.
• Headlight Fuses (Under-hood F9, F10, F11, F12): Headlight bulbs can occasionally short, causing their respective fuses to blow. If one or both of your headlights are out, check these fuses. Also, inspect the headlight bulbs themselves.
• Radio/Infotainment Fuse (Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel F1): If your radio or infotainment system suddenly goes blank or stops responding, this fuse might be the problem. Before checking the fuse, try resetting the system by turning the vehicle off and on again. If that doesn't work, check this fuse. A faulty head unit or external device connected to the system could be the cause.

Always check the component first for a simple explanation like a loose connection or a tripped circuit breaker (if applicable) before diving into fuse replacement. If a fuse continues to blow after replacement, there is an underlying electrical issue that needs professional diagnosis.

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