2019 Ford F-250 Super Duty Serpentine Belt Guide

Quick Answer

6.2L V8 Engine

• Belt Length: 105.7 inches (approx. 2685 mm)
• Rib Count: 6-rib
• OEM Belt P/N: Motorcraft JK6-1057-AA
• Aftermarket Cross-Reference:
  • Gates K061057
  • Dayco 5061057
  • Continental Elite 4061057
• Auto-Tensioner P/N: Motorcraft BT-132, Gates 38329
• Idler Pulley P/N: Motorcraft YB-634, Gates 36209

6.7L Power Stroke Diesel Engine

• Belt Length: 108.5 inches (approx. 2756 mm)
• Rib Count: 8-rib (main serpentine belt)
• OEM Belt P/N (Main): Motorcraft JK8-1085-AA
• Aftermarket Cross-Reference (Main):
  • Gates K081085
  • Dayco 5081085
  • Continental Elite 4081085
• Auto-Tensioner P/N (Main): Motorcraft BT-130, Gates 38330
• Idler Pulley P/N (Main): Motorcraft YB-631, Gates 36210

(Note: The 6.7L Power Stroke diesel also has a secondary belt for the accessory drive. This guide focuses on the main serpentine belt. Always verify part numbers with your VIN for absolute accuracy.)

Belt Routing

Before you begin any belt replacement, always take a clear photograph of the existing belt's routing path from multiple angles. This will serve as an invaluable reference during reinstallation.

6.2L V8 Engine Routing

Starting from the top and moving clockwise (as viewed from the front of the vehicle):

1. Begin at the crankshaft pulley (the large pulley at the bottom center).
2. From the crankshaft, the belt goes up and to the right to the air conditioning (A/C) compressor pulley.
3. From the A/C compressor, it continues up and to the left over the idler pulley (a smooth pulley).
4. From the idler pulley, the belt then travels further left and slightly down to wrap around the alternator pulley.
5. From the alternator, it goes down and to the right to the power steering pump pulley.
6. After the power steering pump, the belt leads straight down to the water pump pulley.
7. Finally, from the water pump, it wraps up and to the left around the automatic tensioner pulley before returning to the crankshaft pulley, completing the loop.

6.7L Power Stroke Diesel Engine Routing (Main Belt)

Starting from the top and moving clockwise (as viewed from the front of the vehicle):

1. Begin at the crankshaft pulley (the large pulley at the bottom center).
2. From the crankshaft, the belt goes up and to the right to the A/C compressor pulley.
3. From the A/C compressor, it continues up and to the left over an idler pulley (often a smooth one).
4. The belt then travels further left and slightly down to the alternator pulley.
5. From the alternator, it makes a long path down and to the right towards the power steering pump pulley.
6. After the power steering pump, the belt goes down to the water pump pulley.
7. Finally, from the water pump, it wraps up and to the left around the automatic tensioner pulley before returning to the crankshaft pulley, completing the loop.

How to Replace the Serpentine Belt

Replacing the serpentine belt on your 2019 Ford F-250 Super Duty is a manageable DIY task for most skilled enthusiasts. You will need a serpentine belt tool or a long 3/8-inch drive breaker bar.

1. Safety First: Ensure the engine is off and cool. Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery for added safety.
2. Locate the Tensioner: Identify the automatic belt tensioner. It will have a square hole designed to accept a 3/8-inch drive tool.
3. Relieve Tension: Insert your breaker bar or serpentine belt tool into the square hole on the tensioner. Rotate the tensioner counter-clockwise (or clockwise, depending on engine, observe the tensioner operation on your vehicle) to relieve tension on the belt. This will allow you to slip the old belt off the pulleys.
4. Remove Old Belt: Carefully remove the old belt from all the pulleys. Pay close attention to its routing if you didn't take photos (though we highly recommend you do!).
5. Inspect Pulleys and Tensioner: While the belt is off, inspect all pulleys for any signs of wear, damage, or excessive play. Spin each pulley by hand; they should turn smoothly and quietly. Check the tensioner for proper function; if it feels loose or doesn't spring back firmly, it should be replaced.
6. Route New Belt: Refer to your photographs or the routing description above. Begin by routing the new belt around all the smooth pulleys and the deep grooves of the ribbed pulleys, leaving the tensioner pulley or one easily accessible smooth pulley for last.
7. Final Tensioning: Once the belt is mostly in place, use your breaker bar or serpentine belt tool to again relieve tension on the tensioner. Slip the new belt over the last pulley. Slowly release the tensioner, ensuring the belt seats correctly in all grooves.
8. Double-Check: Visually inspect all pulleys to make sure the belt is perfectly seated in all the grooves. Start the engine briefly and listen for any abnormal noises. Turn off the engine and re-check belt seating.

Replacement Interval

Ford recommends inspecting the serpentine belt at every scheduled maintenance interval (typically every 10,000 miles or so). Replacement is usually recommended between 60,000 to 100,000 miles, or if signs of wear are observed. However, driving conditions and habits can affect this timeline. It's wise to replace the belt proactively if you plan a long trip, especially after hitting 60,000 miles.

Signs of a Failing Belt or Tensioner

Ignoring a failing serpentine belt or tensioner can lead to a breakdown, as it drives critical accessories.

Failing Serpentine Belt

• Squealing or Chirping Noises: This is the most common sign, especially on cold starts or when turning the steering wheel. It indicates a slipping belt, often due to wear, stretching, or misalignment.
• Cracks, Fraying, or Glazing: Visually inspect the belt. Cracks on the ribbed side, frayed edges, missing chunks, or a shiny/glazed appearance can all indicate a worn belt that needs replacement.
• Lack of Power Steering or A/C: If the belt completely breaks, you will lose power to all belt-driven accessories, including power steering, air conditioning, and the alternator (leading to battery drain).
• Overheating: A broken belt will also stop the water pump, leading to engine overheating.

Failing Tensioner

• Continuous Squealing/Chirping: While a bad belt can squeal, a failing tensioner might not provide adequate tension, causing a good belt to slip and squeal persistently.
• Belt Walk/Misalignment: If the belt appears to be "walking" off one side of a pulley, or if there's excessive dust accumulation on one side of a pulley, the tensioner or an idler pulley might be worn, causing misalignment.
• Visible Pulley Wobble: With the engine running (exercise extreme caution!), observe the tensioner and idler pulleys. Any noticeable wobble or excessive vibration indicates a worn bearing.
• Lack of Tension: If you can easily twist the belt more than 90 degrees between pulleys, the tensioner might be failing to apply proper tension.

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