2018 Honda CR-V Fuse Box Diagram & Amperage

Quick Answer

The 2018 Honda CR-V has three main fuse box locations:

• Under-hood Fuse Box: Located in the engine compartment, typically near the battery.
• Driver's Side Dash Fuse Box: Located on the driver's side, behind a small panel on the kick panel area.
• Rear Cargo Area Fuse Box: Located in the rear cargo area, often behind a trim panel on the driver's side.

Under-hood Fuse Box

The under-hood fuse box contains fuses and relays for major systems like the engine control module (ECM), ignition, cooling fans, anti-lock brakes (ABS), and headlights. Always verify the specific fuse layout against the diagram on your fuse box lid, as variations can occur based on trim level and options.

Location: In the engine compartment, usually on the driver's side, near the battery. It will have a black plastic cover.

Relay Locations (Common):

• Starter Relay: Controls the starter motor.
• Fuel Pump Relay: Powers the fuel pump.
• ECM/PCM Main Relay: Supplies power to the Engine Control Module.
• Cooling Fan Relays: Control the engine cooling fans.
• A/C Clutch Relay: Engages and disengages the A/C compressor clutch.
• Headlight Relays: Control the high and low beam headlights.

Driver's Side Dash Fuse Box

This interior fuse box primarily handles accessories and cabin electronics. Again, consult your vehicle's specific fuse diagram for precise numbering and functions, as minor differences can occur.

Location: On the driver's side, open the door, and look at the side of the dashboard (kick panel area). There will be a small access panel that you can pry off.

Rear Cargo Area Fuse Box

Some 2018 Honda CR-V models may have an additional fuse box in the rear cargo area, typically serving power outlets, rear accessories, and possibly certain trim-specific features. Its exact location can vary, but it's often behind a removable trim panel on the driver's side.

Location: In the rear cargo area, usually behind a removable trim panel on the driver's side.

How to Test a Fuse

1. Safety First: Always turn off the ignition and remove the key (or ensure the vehicle is off for push-button start) before touching any fuses.
2. Locate the Blown Fuse: A blown fuse will have a visible break in the metal wire inside, or it will appear blackened. Some fuses are opaque, requiring a test light or multimeter.
3. Use a Test Light (Recommended):
   • Connect the alligator clip of the test light to a good, unpainted metal ground point on the vehicle.
   • Touch the tip of the test light to the small metal test points on the top of each fuse (if visible). Sometimes you need to pull the fuse out to access the test points.
   • If the test light illuminates on both sides of the fuse (or both test points), the fuse is good. If it only illuminates on one side or not at all, the fuse is blown.
4. Use a Multimeter:
   • Set your multimeter to the continuity setting (usually indicated by a symbol that looks like a sound wave or diode).
   • Carefully remove the fuse from its slot using the fuse puller (usually found in the under-hood fuse box or with your spare fuses).
   • Touch one probe of the multimeter to each metal blade of the fuse.
   • If the multimeter beeps or shows a reading of "0" or close to "0" ohms, the fuse is good. If it shows "OL" (open loop) or no reading, the fuse is blown.
5. Replace with Correct Amperage: Always replace a blown fuse with a new fuse of the exact same amperage rating and physical size. Using a fuse with a higher amperage can cause severe electrical damage or even a fire.

Common Blown Fuses on This Vehicle

While any fuse can blow, some circuits are more prone to issues due to their load or common accessory usage:

• Cigar Lighter / 12V Accessory Outlets: These are frequently blown when charging multiple devices, using high-power accessories like air compressors, or if a faulty charger is inserted. If your phone charger suddenly stops working, check fuse #2 in the Driver's Side Dash Fuse Box and #1 in the Rear Cargo Area Fuse Box first.
• Headlight Fuses (Low Beam): Headlight bulbs can fail and sometimes take the fuse with them, though this is less common with modern LED systems. If one headlight is out, check fuses #1 and #2 in the Under-hood Fuse Box.
• Blower Motor Fuse: If your climate control fan stops working entirely, especially after running on high for a long time, the main blower motor fuse (#18 in the Under-hood Fuse Box) is a common culprit.
• Radio / Infotainment Fuse: If your audio system suddenly goes dead, check fuse #1 in the Driver's Side Dash Fuse Box. This can sometimes blow due to aftermarket installations or electrical quirks.
• Brake Light Fuses: If your brake lights aren't working, check fuse #11 in the Driver's Side Dash Fuse Box. Sometimes a faulty bulb can lead to a fuse blowing.

Always check the easiest explanations first. For example, if an accessory isn't working, try a different accessory in the same outlet. If a light is out, check the bulb. If a function is completely dead, then move on to checking the relevant fuse.

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