2014 Ram 2500 Serpentine Belt Routing, Length & Part Numbers

As an ASE-certified master technician, I’ve replaced countless drive belts on heavy-duty trucks. If you own a 2014 Ram 2500, especially the legendary 6.7L Cummins Turbo Diesel workhorse, keeping your serpentine belt and tensioner in top shape is critical to preventing roadside breakdowns. A snapped belt means you instantly lose power steering, alternator charging, your water pump, and your A/C.

Here is your comprehensive serpentine belt reference guide for the 2014 Ram 2500 (focusing on the popular 6.7L Cummins Diesel engine).

Quick Answer: Belt Specs & Part Numbers

Note: The 2014 Ram 2500 was available with the 6.7L Cummins Diesel, the 6.4L HEMI V8, and the 5.7L HEMI V8. The specifications below are for the 6.7L Cummins Turbo Diesel with Single Alternator and A/C, which is the most common heavy-duty configuration.

• Belt Length: 119.0 inches
• Rib Count: 8-rib
• OEM Belt Part Number: Mopar 53032857AB (or 04792968AA)
• Aftermarket Belt Cross-References: Gates K081189 (or K081189HD FleetRunner), Dayco 5081190, Continental Elite 4081189
• Auto-Tensioner Part Number: Mopar 53032860AA (Aftermarket: Gates 38332)
• Idler Pulley Part Number: Mopar 53032861AA (Aftermarket: Gates 36322)

(If you have the 6.4L or 5.7L HEMI, your truck utilizes a 6-rib belt and a completely different routing pattern. Always verify your specific engine option with your parts supplier before purchasing.)

Belt Routing

Before you even touch a wrench, take a clear photograph of your existing belt routing with your smartphone. It is incredibly easy to forget the exact path once the old belt is off, and a photo is the ultimate reference.

Since we can't render an image here, follow this text-based step-by-step routing path for the 6.7L Cummins:

1. Start at the Crankshaft Pulley (the large pulley at the bottom center).
2. Route the belt straight up and over the ribbed Water Pump / Fan Pulley.
3. From the top of the water pump, go across to the right (passenger side) and over the Alternator Pulley.
4. Bring the belt straight down from the alternator to wrap under the smooth Idler Pulley.
5. Route it across the bottom to the passenger side, wrapping under the A/C Compressor.
6. Take the belt straight up from the A/C compressor and over the Power Steering Pump on the upper driver's side.
7. Finally, pull the belt down and around the smooth Auto-Tensioner Pulley before connecting back to the Crankshaft.

Tip: The ribbed side of the belt must ride on the grooved pulleys (Crank, Alternator, A/C, Power Steering, Water Pump), while the smooth back of the belt rides on the smooth pulleys (Tensioner, Idler).

How to Replace the Serpentine Belt

Replacing the belt on the 6.7L Cummins can be a tight squeeze due to the fan shroud, but it is a straightforward job.

1. Gather your tools: You will need a 3/8" drive serpentine belt tool or a long 3/8" drive breaker bar.
2. Release the tension: Locate the auto-tensioner on the lower driver's side of the engine block. Insert the 3/8" square drive into the square hole on the tensioner arm.
3. Remove the belt: Rotate the tensioner clockwise (towards the passenger side) to relieve tension. Slip the belt off the easiest accessible pulley (usually the water pump or power steering pump) and slowly release the tensioner.
4. Extract the old belt: Carefully snake the old belt around the fan blades and out of the engine bay.
5. Route the new belt: Snake the new belt down around the fan and route it around all pulleys according to the path described above, leaving the tensioner or water pump for last.
6. Apply tension: Crank the tensioner open again, slip the belt over your final pulley, and slowly release the tensioner. Double-check every single pulley to ensure the ribs are perfectly seated in the grooves.

Replacement Interval

As a master technician, I recommend inspecting your drive belt every oil change. You should plan for a proactive replacement every 60,000 to 90,000 miles. However, heavy towing, extreme temperatures, and dusty environments can shorten the lifespan of EPDM belts. Always replace the tensioner and idler pulley at the same time as the belt—if the belt has reached the end of its life, the bearings in those pulleys are right behind it.

Signs of a Failing Belt or Tensioner

Don't wait for the belt to snap on the highway. Look out for these warning signs:

• High-Pitched Squealing or Chirping: Usually indicates a worn belt, a weak tensioner spring, or a failing pulley bearing.
• Visible Wear: Cracks across the ribs, missing chunks of rubber, or fraying edges. Modern EPDM belts don't crack as much as older neoprene belts; instead, the ribs wear down like tire tread. Use a belt wear gauge if you aren't sure.
• Heavy Steering or A/C Loss: If the belt is slipping, your power steering will feel heavy or jerky, and your A/C may blow warm.
• Tensioner "Slapping": With the engine running, observe the tensioner. If it is bouncing erratically or vibrating heavily, the internal damper is blown and it must be replaced.

If you don't have the time, tools, or confidence to tackle this heavy-duty maintenance job yourself, don't worry. Find a trusted shop on Repairius.