2020 Tesla Model X Fuse Box Diagram & Amperages

As an ASE-certified master technician, I’ve seen the automotive industry transition from mechanical relays and basic wiring to highly advanced electronic control architectures. The 2020 Tesla Model X is a prime example of this evolution. Unlike traditional gas-powered vehicles, the Model X relies heavily on electronic "e-fuses" controlled by vehicle control modules (VCFront, VCLeft, VCRight). However, despite this digital architecture, the vehicle still utilizes several traditional, physical 12V fuses to protect critical circuits, high-amperage components, and sensitive electronics like the Media Control Unit (MCU) and Autopilot hardware.

If you are experiencing electrical issues in your 2020 Tesla Model X—such as a dead 12V accessory outlet, unresponsive infotainment system, or climate control problems—checking the physical fuses is a great first step. Below is a comprehensive guide to the fuse box locations, diagrams, and amperage ratings for this vehicle.

Quick Answer: Fuse Box Locations

The 2020 Tesla Model X features three primary locations where physical fuses and relays are housed. Note: You will need to remove plastic trim panels in the front trunk to access the under-hood fuse boxes.

1. Under-Hood (Frunk) Fuse Box 1: Located under the maintenance panel in the front trunk, near the 12V battery and windshield washer fluid reservoir.
2. Under-Hood (Frunk) Fuse Box 2: Located adjacent to Fuse Box 1, closer to the HEPA filter housing (if equipped).
3. Passenger Cabin / Kick Panel Fuse Box: Located in the passenger-side footwell, behind the plastic kick panel trim.

Important Note: Tesla frequently updates wiring harnesses and fuse layouts during production runs. Always verify the fuse layout against the printed legend located on the inside of your fuse box lid, as trim variations (Long Range vs. Performance) and hardware versions (e.g., Autopilot HW3) can slightly alter fuse placements.

Under-Hood (Frunk) Fuse Box 1

This primary fuse box handles many of the core 12V accessories, thermal management, and lighting systems. To access it, you must pull up the rear plastic cowl cover in the frunk.

Under-Hood (Frunk) Fuse Box 2

Situated next to the primary box, this secondary fuse box is largely dedicated to the high-level computing hardware, including the Media Control Unit (MCU) and Autopilot systems.

Passenger Cabin (Kick Panel) Fuse Box

This fuse box is generally used for interior conveniences and trailer brake readiness. It is located behind the trim panel in the passenger footwell.

How to test a fuse

Because Teslas are highly computerized, replacing a fuse blindly without testing it isn't recommended. Here is the safest and most accurate way to test the physical fuses on your Model X:

1. Power Down the Vehicle: Using the main MCU screen, navigate to Safety & Security > Power Off. Wait for the vehicle to completely power down (listen for the high-voltage contactors to click open).
2. Access the Fuse: Remove the necessary trim panels to access the fuse box.
3. Use a Digital Multimeter: The best way to test an automotive blade fuse is with a digital multimeter set to "Continuity" (the setting that beeps) or Ohms.
4. Probe the Test Points: Modern blade fuses have two tiny metal test points exposed on the top of the plastic housing. Touch one multimeter probe to each test point.
5. Read the Result: If the multimeter beeps (or shows near 0 ohms), the fuse is good. If it reads "OL" (Open Loop) or infinite resistance, the internal wire is broken, and the fuse has blown.
6. Replace: Always replace a blown fuse with a new one of the exact same amperage and color. Never install a larger fuse, as this can severely damage the Tesla's sensitive wiring harnesses.

Common blown fuses on this vehicle

While the Model X is highly reliable when it comes to electrical circuitry (thanks to the e-fuses handling most transient faults), there are a few physical fuses that technicians frequently see blown:

• 12V Power Outlets (F301 / F302 - 15A): This is the most common blown fuse. Owners often plug in faulty tire inflators, high-draw inverters, or damaged phone chargers into the center console or trunk 12V outlet. If your accessory port is dead, check these fuses first.
• MCU / Infotainment Display (F201 - 15A): While rare, a sudden voltage spike or a glitch in the 12V battery system can blow the fuse for the main center screen. If your screen goes completely black and a two-button steering wheel reset doesn't wake it up, check this fuse.
• Air Suspension Compressor (F207 - 30A): If the vehicle struggles to change ride height or you receive an air suspension error on the dash, the compressor fuse might be blown. This usually indicates a heavily leaking air strut causing the compressor to overwork, overheat, and blow the fuse.

Electrical diagnosis on a Tesla can be complex due to the intertwining of physical fuses and software-controlled e-fuses. If replacing a blown fuse results in it immediately blowing again, do not continue to replace it. You have a direct short to ground that requires professional diagnosis.

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