2016 Toyota Camry Fuse Box Diagram & Amperage Guide

As an ASE-certified master technician, one of the most frequent electrical tasks I see involves tracking down power losses in modern sedans like the 2016 Toyota Camry. Whether your 12V power outlet stopped working, your radio won't turn on, or you have a headlight out, the first and easiest step in diagnosing the issue is checking the fuses.

This comprehensive fuse box reference guide for the 2016 Toyota Camry will help you locate your fuse boxes, identify the correct fuse or relay for your specific circuit, and learn how to properly test them.

Note: Fuse diagrams can vary slightly depending on your Camry’s trim level (LE, SE, XLE, XSE) and engine type (2.5L 4-cylinder vs. 3.5L V6). Always verify with the printed legend on the inside of your fuse box lid.

Quick answer: 2016 Toyota Camry Fuse Box Locations

The 2016 Toyota Camry has two primary fuse box locations that contain the fuses and relays for the vehicle's electrical components:

1. Engine Compartment Fuse Box: Located under the hood on the driver’s side, near the battery. It is housed under a black plastic cover with a push-tab release.
2. Passenger Compartment Fuse Box: Located inside the cabin on the driver’s side, under the instrument panel / kick-panel area. You will need to look up underneath the dashboard to access the cover.

There is no trunk or cargo fuse box on the standard 2016 Camry.

Engine Compartment Fuse Box Diagram

The under-hood fuse box houses high-amperage fuses, critical engine management components, and relays for exterior lighting, the ABS system, and cooling fans.

Relay Locations (Under-Hood): Also located in this box are several primary relays. The Integration Relay handles multiple engine functions. You will also find the Starter Relay (ST), EFI Relay, Horn Relay, Fan Relays, and the Dimmer/Headlight Relays.

Passenger Compartment Fuse Box Diagram

The interior fuse box under the driver's side dashboard controls the internal cabin accessories, safety restraint systems, and standard interior body electronics.

How to test a fuse

Fuses are designed as the weak link in an electrical circuit. If a component draws too much current, the internal wire element in the fuse melts ("blows") to prevent wires from catching fire or expensive modules from shorting out.

Here is the best way to test them:

1. Visual Inspection: Pull the suspected fuse using the plastic fuse puller (usually stored in the under-hood fuse box lid) or a pair of needle-nose pliers. Hold the fuse up to a light source. If the "U" or "S" shaped metal wire inside the plastic housing is broken or scorched black, the fuse is blown.
2. Using a Multimeter: Set your digital multimeter to the "Continuity" setting (the one that beeps) or Ohms (resistance). Touch one probe to each of the exposed metal tabs on top of the fuse. If the meter beeps or reads near 0 Ohms, the fuse is good. If it reads "OL" (Open Loop) or doesn't beep, the fuse is blown.
3. Using a 12V Test Light: With the vehicle's ignition in the "ON" position (do not start the engine), clip the test light to a good metal ground. Touch the probe to the small metal test points on the top of the fuse while it is still plugged in. If the light illuminates on both sides of the fuse, it is good. If it lights up on only one side, the fuse is blown.

Pro tip: Always replace a blown fuse with one of the exact same amperage rating. Never use a higher amp fuse to "cure" a fuse that keeps blowing. This is a massive fire hazard.

Common blown fuses on this vehicle

As an ASE master tech, I frequently see 2016 Camrys come into the shop for a few highly specific electrical complaints. If you own this vehicle, check these fuses first:

• 12V Power Outlet (CIG - 15A): By far the most common blown fuse. People drop coins into the socket, or they use cheap, faulty phone chargers that short out the circuit. Check the CIG fuse in the interior box.
• Radio/Infotainment (RADIO - 20A or ACC - 15A): If your touchscreen goes entirely blank, these two fuses are the prime suspects. Sometimes a system reboot requires pulling this fuse for 10 minutes and putting it back in.
• Blower Motor (HTR - 40A): If your A/C and heater controls light up, but no air blows from the vents, the HTR fuse or the blower motor relay might be bad. Note that a failing blower motor can pull too much amperage and blow this fuse.
• Headlights (HEAD LH/RH - 15A): If only one headlight works and you've already tried replacing the bulb, check the individual left or right headlight fuses under the hood.

If you keep replacing a fuse and it immediately blows again, you have a dead short in that circuit (like a bare wire touching the metal chassis) or a failed component. At that point, it’s time for professional diagnostics.

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