2020 Toyota Camry Fuse Box Diagram & Amperage Guide

Welcome to the definitive fuse box guide for the 2020 Toyota Camry. Whether you are dealing with a dead radio, a malfunctioning power outlet, or headlights that won’t turn on, checking the fuses is always the first diagnostic step. As an ASE-certified master technician, I have compiled this comprehensive guide to help you locate and identify the fuses and relays in your Camry.

Disclaimer: Fuse configurations can vary slightly depending on the exact trim level (LE, SE, XLE, XSE) and engine option (2.5L 4-cylinder, 3.5L V6, or Hybrid). Always verify against the printed legend located on the inside of your fuse box lid.

Quick answer: Fuse Box Locations

The 2020 Toyota Camry features two primary fuse box locations that handle all major electrical circuits:

1. Engine Compartment Fuse Box: Located under the hood on the driver’s side, directly next to the battery. This box contains high-amp fuses and main relays for the engine, cooling, and exterior lighting.
2. Passenger Compartment Fuse Box (Dash/Kick-panel): Located inside the cabin on the driver's side, underneath the dashboard on the left-hand side kick panel. You will need to get down on the floorboard and look up under the dash to access the cover. (Note: Hybrid models may have additional high-voltage fusible links near the hybrid battery pack under the rear seat, but standard 12V fuses remain in the two locations above).

Engine Compartment Fuse Box

This fuse block protects major exterior and engine-related components. Remove the black plastic cover by pressing the release tabs. You will find the diagram printed on the underside of the lid.

Relays in this box: Starter Relay, EFI Main Relay, Horn Relay, Headlight Control Relay, A/C Magnetic Clutch Relay.

Passenger Compartment Fuse Box (Dash Kick-Panel)

The interior fuse box controls the cabin accessories, infotainment, safety systems, and lighting. Remove the plastic lid by unclipping it from the bottom of the driver's side dash.

Relays in this area: IG1 (Ignition 1), ACC (Accessory), Tail Relay, Power Window Relay.

How to Test a Fuse

Testing a fuse is a straightforward process that can save you hours of diagnostic headache. You don't need to be a professional mechanic to do it right. Here is the best method:

1. Visual Inspection: Pull the suspected fuse using the white plastic fuse puller (usually stored in the engine compartment fuse box lid). Look at the U-shaped metal wire inside the colored translucent plastic. If the wire is broken or has a black burn mark, the fuse is blown.
2. Multimeter Testing (Best Method): Set your digital multimeter to continuity mode (the one that beeps) or Ohms (resistance). Touch the two metal tabs on top of the fuse while it is still plugged into the fuse box. If you hear a beep or see a reading of near 0 ohms, the fuse is good. If there's no beep or it reads "OL" (Open Loop), the fuse is blown.
3. Test Light: Clip the ground wire of a 12V test light to a bare metal chassis ground. Turn the vehicle's ignition to the "ON" position. Probe the two small exposed metal dots on the top of the fuse. If the test light illuminates on both sides, the fuse is good. If it lights up on only one side, the fuse is blown.

Always replace a blown fuse with one of the exact same amperage (color). Never put a higher-amp fuse in place of a lower-amp one, as this can cause the wiring to overheat and potentially start an electrical fire.

Common Blown Fuses on this Vehicle

While the 2020 Toyota Camry is an incredibly reliable vehicle, certain circuits are more prone to blowing fuses due to normal wear and tear or accessory usage:

• 12V Power Outlet / Cigar Lighter (15A P/OUTLET): This is the most frequently blown interior fuse. It usually happens when a cheap or faulty phone charger is plugged into the 12V socket, or if a coin drops into the open socket. Check first: Remove the device from the socket and inspect for debris before replacing the fuse.
• Radio / Infotainment (15A Multimedia): If your touchscreen display goes completely black and won't turn on, this fuse is the likely culprit. Sometimes a software glitch or a shorted USB cord can cause a power spike. Check first: Unplug all USB devices before replacing the fuse.
• Headlights (15A H-LP LH/RH): Upgrading from factory halogen bulbs to aftermarket LED or HID kits can sometimes pull excessive current upon startup, popping the low beam fuses. Check first: Ensure aftermarket bulb ballasts are properly grounded.
• Tail/Parking Lights (10A TAIL): If you are towing a small trailer and your running lights go out, the trailer wiring is likely shorting out. Check first: Inspect the 4-pin trailer harness for frayed wires or corrosion.

If you replace a fuse and it immediately blows again when you turn the key, stop! You have an active short-circuit in that system that needs to be properly diagnosed. Do not keep feeding it new fuses.

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