2017 Toyota Tundra Oil Capacity, Viscosity & Filter Specs

The 2017 Toyota Tundra takes exactly 7.9 quarts (7.5 Liters) of 0W-20 engine oil when replacing the oil and the oil filter. Whether you have the 4.6L V8 or the robust 5.7L V8 under the hood, this full-size workhorse relies on high-quality synthetic oil to keep its valvetrain operating smoothly and cleanly over hundreds of thousands of miles.

As an ASE-certified master technician, I've serviced countless Tundras. Below is your complete reference guide to getting your 2017 Tundra's oil change done right the first time.

Quick answer

• Oil Capacity: 7.9 quarts (7.5 L) with filter change
• Recommended Weight/Viscosity: 0W-20
• Oil Specification: ILSAC GF-5 or GF-6A / API SN or API SP (Full Synthetic)
• OEM Oil Filter Part Number: Toyota 04152-YZZA4 (Cartridge style)
• Aftermarket Cross-References: Fram CH10295, Wix 57047, Mobil 1 M1C-251

Capacity by engine option

For the 2017 model year, Toyota offered the Tundra with two V8 engine options. Because they are part of the same engine family (the UR series), their oil capacities and requirements are identical.

Oil change interval

Toyota recommends utilizing fully synthetic 0W-20 oil to maximize engine protection and fuel economy. The oil change interval depends heavily on how you use your truck:

• Normal Duty: Every 10,000 miles or 12 months. This applies if you do mostly highway driving without heavy payloads or frequent towing.
• Severe Duty: Every 5,000 miles or 6 months. You fall into this category if you frequently tow trailers, haul heavy payloads, drive on dirt/dusty roads, idle extensively, or make repeated short trips in freezing temperatures.

Note: Even if you run 10,000-mile intervals on the oil, Toyota recommends rotating the tires and inspecting fluids every 5,000 miles.

Drain plug torque

• Oil Pan Drain Plug Torque: 30 ft-lbs (40 Nm)
• Crush Washer: Always replace the drain plug gasket (Toyota Part # 90430-12031). Reusing the old crush washer is the number one cause of post-service oil drips.
• Filter Housing Drain Plug Torque: 10 ft-lbs (13 Nm)
• Filter Housing Assembly Torque: 18 ft-lbs (25 Nm)

How to change the oil

1. Warm up the engine: Run the truck for a few minutes so the oil is warm and flows easily. Ensure the truck is parked on a level surface.
2. Remove the skid plate: You will need to drop the front factory skid plate to access the oil filter housing.
3. Drain the oil: Place a large drain pan (at least 10-quart capacity) under the engine. Remove the 14mm drain plug and allow the oil to drain completely. Reinstall the plug with a new crush washer and torque to 30 ft-lbs.
4. Drain the filter housing: Remove the small metal cap on the bottom of the plastic oil filter housing. Use the plastic drain spout provided with your new oil filter to push up into the spring-loaded valve, draining the housing.
5. Replace the filter: Using a 64mm Toyota-specific oil filter wrench, loosen and remove the cartridge housing. Replace the paper element and install the two new O-rings (one large for the housing threads, one small for the bottom drain plug). Lightly coat the O-rings in fresh oil.
6. Reinstall housing: Torque the filter housing to 18 ft-lbs, then install the bottom filter drain plug to 10 ft-lbs. Reattach the skid plate.
7. Refill and check: Add 7.9 quarts of 0W-20 oil through the filler neck on top of the engine. Start the engine, check for leaks underneath, shut it off, wait 5 minutes, and verify the level on the dipstick.

Common issues / tips

• Specialty Tool Required: Do not attempt to remove the plastic oil filter housing with pliers or a standard strap wrench. The housing is prone to cracking and stripping. Invest in a proper 64mm, 14-flute Toyota cartridge filter wrench (like the Motivx Tools or AST).
• Aluminum vs. Plastic Housings: Many owners upgrade the factory plastic filter housing to the OEM aluminum version (Toyota Part # 15620-31060) from other Toyota models. If yours is seized or cracked, this is a highly recommended and affordable upgrade.
• O-ring Placement: Be careful when installing the large O-ring on the filter housing. It goes in the specific groove below the threads, not pushed all the way up against the lip. Placing it incorrectly will cause a massive oil leak upon startup.

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