2015 Ford Explorer — Coolant Capacity & Type

The 2015 Ford Explorer holds roughly 9 to 14 quarts (about 8.5–13.2 liters) of coolant, depending on the engine and option content. See engine-specific ranges below and always verify on the under-hood label or factory service info for your exact powertrain.

Quick answer

• Total cooling system capacity: approximately 9–14 qt (8.5–13.2 L), engine-dependent
• OEM coolant spec: Motorcraft Specialty Orange, OAT chemistry, Ford spec WSS-M97B44-D2 (orange)
• Mix ratio: 50/50 (use Motorcraft pre-mix VC-3DIL-B), or mix concentrate 50/50 with distilled water

Capacity by engine option

Multiple engines were offered for the 2015 Explorer. Typical total-fill ranges are below; actual capacity can vary slightly with AWD vs FWD, tow package, heater core variants, and residual fluid during service.

Engine (2015 Explorer)	Typical system capacity (qt)	Typical system capacity (L)
2.0L EcoBoost I-4 (turbo)	~8.5–10.0 qt	~8.0–9.5 L
3.5L Ti-VCT V6 (naturally aspirated)	~11.5–13.0 qt	~10.9–12.3 L
3.5L EcoBoost V6 (Sport)	~12.5–14.0 qt	~11.8–13.2 L

Notes:

• The above are practical service-fill ranges observed for full drain/flush. A routine drain-and-fill without vacuum equipment will accept less due to trapped coolant in the block and heater core.
• Police Interceptor Utility (not the retail Explorer) and export variants may differ.

Flush interval

• Normal service: 10 years or 150,000 miles (240,000 km) on Motorcraft Orange OAT coolant.
• Severe service (frequent towing, hot climates, lots of idling, or poor maintenance history): 5 years or 100,000 miles.
• After the first replacement, many OEM publications specify subsequent changes at approximately 5 years/100,000 miles.

Use only an OAT coolant meeting Ford WSS-M97B44-D2. Do not mix with conventional green, hybrid HOAT, or Ford Yellow P-OAT coolants. If the history is unknown or colors are mixed, perform a thorough flush.

How to refill & bleed

These Explorers use a pressurized degas bottle (no radiator cap). Vacuum-fill is preferred to avoid air pockets, especially on turbo engines.

1. Drain

• Allow the engine to cool completely. Safely raise the front if needed.
• Open the radiator drain (if equipped) and disconnect the lower radiator hose to maximize drain. Catch and dispose of coolant properly.

2. Optional flush

• Close drains, fill with distilled water, run engine with heater on HIGH until warm, then cool and drain. Repeat until clear if contamination is present.

3. Refill

• Best method: Use a cooling system vacuum-fill tool at the degas bottle to pull 20–25 inHg, then ingest the correct 50/50 coolant until vacuum equalizes.
• Without vacuum-fill: Slowly fill the degas bottle to the COLD FILL line with 50/50. Squeeze the upper radiator hose several times to burp air.

4. Bleed

• Set HVAC to full HOT with the blower on medium.
• Start engine and hold 1,500 rpm for several minutes after it reaches operating temperature. Watch for heat at the vents and the upper hose getting hot.
• Top up to the COLD line as the level drops. Install the cap, then continue to run until cooling fans cycle at least once.
• Shut off, let cool completely, and recheck the level. Top to COLD FILL line as needed.

Notes

• Most 2015 Explorer engines do not use a separate bleeder screw—air purges through the degas bottle. The 3.5L EcoBoost’s turbo cooling circuit makes vacuum-fill highly recommended.
• Replace the degas cap if it won’t hold pressure or the seal is cracked.

Common cooling system issues (2011–2015 Explorer)

• Internal water pump failure (3.5L Ti-VCT V6): The timing-chain-driven pump can leak internally, contaminating the oil and causing overheating or engine damage. Watch for unexplained coolant loss, milky oil, or P0128. Proactive replacement with timing set service is common around higher mileage.
• External water pump leaks (3.5L EcoBoost): Belt-driven pump can seep at the weep hole—look for crusted coolant near the pump and intermittent overheating at idle.
• Degas bottle and cap: Hairline cracks or weak caps can cause slow loss and aeration. Inspect for dried orange residue around the seams and cap.
• Thermostat housing/quick-connects: Plastic housings and hose quick-connect fittings may seep. Look for coolant around the thermostat area and at the upper hose connection.
• Radiator fan control/fan assemblies: Intermittent or no low-speed operation can cause overheating in traffic with A/C on. Scan for fan speed commands vs. actual and verify current draw.
• Heater performance fluctuations: Usually air in the system after service or partial clogging; proper bleeding and vacuum-fill typically resolve.

If you’re unsure of the exact capacity for your trim, refill carefully, use a vacuum-fill tool when possible, and verify the final level after a full heat-soak/cool cycle.

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