2015 Ford Explorer Fuse Box Diagram & Amp Ratings

As an ASE-certified master technician, I know how frustrating it can be when a simple electrical accessory like your radio, A/C blower, or 12V power point suddenly stops working. Often, the culprit is just a blown fuse.

Here at Repairius, we want to help you pinpoint these issues quickly. Below, you will find a comprehensive guide and diagram reference for the 2015 Ford Explorer, covering all fuse box locations, amperage ratings, and the critical circuits they protect.

Note: Fuse configurations can vary slightly depending on your Explorer’s exact trim level (Base, XLT, Limited, Sport) and optional packages (like the trailer tow package). Always verify the fuse layout using the printed legend on the inside of your fuse box lid or your owner’s manual.

Quick Answer: 2015 Ford Explorer Fuse Box Locations

The 2015 Ford Explorer is equipped with two main fuse boxes:

1. Power Distribution Box (Under-Hood): Located in the engine compartment on the driver's side, near the battery. It houses high-current fuses, relays, and protects major under-hood systems like the cooling fans, ABS, and fuel pump.
2. Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel (Dash): Located under the instrument panel, to the left of the steering column/brake pedal. You may need to remove a trim cover to access it. This panel protects cabin accessories like the radio, interior lights, and diagnostic connectors.

Power Distribution Box (Under-Hood)

The under-hood Power Distribution Box contains high-amperage cartridge fuses (J-Case), mini fuses, and relays. Here is a breakdown of the most common critical fuses.

Important Relays in the Power Distribution Box:

• Relay 37: Blower motor relay
• Relay 38: Rear window defroster relay
• Relay 39: Cooling fan relay
• Relay 57: Starter relay
• Relay 75: Fuel pump relay

Passenger Compartment Fuse Panel (Dash/Kick-Panel)

The interior fuse box utilizes smaller, low-profile mini fuses. These control the systems you interact with most inside the cabin.

(Note: The 2015 Explorer does not have a dedicated rear trunk fuse box. Rear components like the liftgate and rear wiper are powered via the Under-hood and Dash fuse panels.)

How to Test a Fuse

Before you start ripping out electrical components, verify that the fuse isn't the root cause. Here is the ASE-certified method for testing fuses:

1. Visual Inspection: Pull the suspect fuse using a fuse puller tool or needle-nose pliers. Hold it up to a light. The internal metal filament inside the plastic casing should be a continuous "U" or "S" shape. If it’s broken, melted, or blackened, the fuse is blown and needs replacement.
2. Test Light Method: Turn the ignition ON (engine off). Attach the ground clip of a 12V test light to a good, bare metal ground. Touch the probe to the small exposed metal testing tabs on the top of the fuse while it is still plugged in. If the light illuminates on one side but not the other, the fuse is blown.
3. Multimeter Continuity Test: Set your digital multimeter to the "Continuity" setting (usually indicated by a sound wave icon). Touch the red and black probes to the two testing tabs on top of the fuse. If you hear a solid beep, the fuse is good. No beep means the circuit is open (blown).

Never replace a fuse with one of a higher amperage rating. Doing so can cause the wiring to overheat, melt, or even start an electrical fire.

Common Blown Fuses on This Vehicle

On the 2015 Ford Explorer, a few circuits tend to blow fuses more often than others. If you are experiencing electrical gremlins, check these first:

• 12V Power Points / Cigar Lighter Fuses: With families plugging in multiple tablets, phones, and high-draw chargers, the 12V auxiliary power fuses often blow. Check Fuse #32 (40A) in the under-hood box, as well as any auxiliary fuses for rear console power points.
• Fuel Pump Relay/Fuse: If your Explorer cranks but refuses to start, check Fuse #89 (20A) and the fuel pump relay in the under-hood box.
• SYNC/Radio (Fuse #2 and #29 in Dash): The Ford SYNC system is notorious for freezing or going blank. Often, just pulling and reseating the radio or SYNC fuse performs a hard reset, fixing the issue. If it’s completely dead, the fuse may be blown.
• Trailer Tow Fuses: If you tow a boat or camper, older trailers often have wiring shorts. Check fuses #62 and #63 under the hood if your trailer lights aren't working but the vehicle lights are.

If you keep replacing a fuse and it immediately pops when you turn the key, you have a dead short in the wiring or a failed component. At that point, it’s time to seek professional diagnostic help.

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