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    Key Fob Programming

    2016 Ford Explorer — Key Fob Programming Guide

    DIY steps (when possible), battery info, costs, and what to expect if you need a pro

    AI-generated reference. Always verify torque values, fluid capacities, intervals, and procedures against the manufacturer's service manual or OEM repair information before performing work. Repairius is not liable for damage from acting on this content without verification.

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    Quick reference

    ItemDetail
    FCC IDVaries by trim/build year segment. Check the label inside your current fob under the battery for the exact FCC ID.
    OEM Fob PNVaries by trim and whether you have push-button start (Intelligent Access) or a key/turn ignition. Dealer can confirm by VIN; don’t mix part numbers across trims.
    Aftermarket OptionsAvailable from reputable sellers. Must match your exact FCC ID and button count. Refurbished OEM often works best for reliability.
    Battery TypeCommonly CR2450 or CR2032 coin cell (verify by opening your fob and reading the cell).
    Programmable On-Board?Conditionally: Yes only to add a spare when you already have two working admin keys. Otherwise, programming requires a dealer/locksmith scan tool.
    Cuts Required?Yes. All 2016 Explorers use a cut key blade: an emergency key for push-button start fobs, or a main blade for remote-head keys. HU101 profile is typical.

    Step-by-step on-board programming

    Your 2016 Ford Explorer uses Ford’s PATS immobilizer. On-board (DIY) programming is limited but possible in two specific scenarios when you already have two working admin keys/fobs. If you have fewer than two working admin keys, skip to “If on-board programming isn’t supported.”

    Important: Only an “admin” key/fob can authorize new keys. If your Explorer is set up with MyKey limitations and you don’t have an admin key, you’ll need a locksmith or dealer to clear/add keys.

    Choose the procedure that matches your Explorer:

    A) Push-button start (Intelligent Access) — adding a third fob when you already have two working admin fobs

    1. Close all doors. Have all fobs with you (two working admins plus the new fob). Locate the backup key reader slot (in most Explorers it’s inside the front console—check your owner’s manual for the exact location).
    2. Place the first working fob in the backup slot. Press the START/STOP button once (do not press the brake). Wait for the chime/message, then remove the fob.
    3. Place the second working fob in the backup slot. Press START/STOP again (no brake). Wait for the chime/message, then remove the fob.
    4. Place the new, unprogrammed fob in the backup slot. Press START/STOP again (no brake). Wait for confirmation in the cluster (tone/message). Remove the fob and test: lock/unlock and engine start with the brake should both work. Program any additional fobs immediately by repeating step 4.

    B) Turn-key ignition (remote-head key) — adding a third key when you already have two working admin keys

    1. Insert the first working key. Turn the ignition to RUN (not start) for about 3 seconds, then turn OFF and remove the key.
    2. Within 10 seconds, insert the second working key. Turn to RUN for about 3 seconds, then turn OFF and remove the key.
    3. Within 20 seconds, insert the new unprogrammed key and turn to RUN. The security light should illuminate briefly and then go out, indicating success. Turn OFF, remove, and test starting the vehicle. Repeat step 3 for any additional keys immediately.

    Notes:

    • The above steps add the immobilizer portion. On some late-model Fords, the remote lock/unlock portion is not user-programmable and may still require a scan tool, especially for remote-head keys. If your buttons don’t work after the PATS add, a locksmith or dealer can pair the RKE via the BCM.

    Battery replacement

    • Push-button start (Intelligent Access) fob: Pop out the mechanical emergency key by sliding the release. Carefully pry the fob shell at the seam. Note the coin cell type printed on the battery (commonly CR2450 or CR2032). Replace with the same type, positive (+) side matching the original orientation. Snap the case back together and reinstall the key blade.
    • Remote-head key (flip or fixed blade with buttons): Use a small flat tool at the seam to split the shell. Replace the coin cell with the exact same type printed on the original battery. Reassemble the case firmly around the rubber gasket.
    • After replacement, test lock/unlock and, for IA fobs, verify the vehicle starts with the fob inside.

    Where to buy a replacement fob

    • Dealer: OEM parts, VIN-matched guidance. Expect roughly $220–$450 for an Intelligent Access fob plus programming and cutting the emergency key; $140–$250 for a remote-head key, plus programming/cutting. Pros: guaranteed compatibility, software updates if needed. Cons: highest cost.
    • Automotive locksmith: Typically $180–$350 for IA fobs and $120–$300 for remote-head keys including cutting/coding (varies by region). Pros: mobile service, competitive pricing, fast turnaround. Cons: quality varies—choose a well-reviewed pro.
    • Online (Amazon/eBay/parts sites): Lowest part cost ($25–$120 typical for aftermarket; $60–$180 for refurbished OEM). Pros: savings and choice. Cons: you must match the exact FCC ID and button configuration; used IA fobs must be “unlocked/reset” to be reusable. You’ll still need cutting and, in most cases, professional programming unless you have two admin keys for on-board add.

    If on-board programming isn’t supported

    If you have zero or only one working admin key/fob, or if your remote buttons won’t pair on-board, programming requires a dealer/locksmith scan tool. The 2016 Explorer uses Ford’s PATS 80-bit immobilizer (commonly referred to as Texas 4D 63 80-bit). Adding keys without two admins involves security access, parameter resets, and BCM key registration that cannot be completed with door/ignition cycles.

    What to expect:

    • Professional programming time: 15–45 minutes, including cutting the HU101 key blade and pairing RKE/IA functions.
    • Typical costs: $90–$160 for programming labor (often bundled), plus the cost of the key/fob and cutting. Mobile locksmiths frequently undercut dealer pricing while using OEM-level tools.
    • Bring proof of ownership and photo ID; key coding is restricted for theft prevention.

    Tip: Always test every function before the technician leaves—lock/unlock, remote start (if equipped), panic, trunk release, and starting the engine. Keep at least two working admin keys/fobs on hand so you can add spares yourself in the future.

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