2017 Ford Explorer — Key Fob Programming Guide

Quick reference

Item	Detail
FCC ID	Verify on your original fob’s label (varies by trim/options). Look under the battery cover or on the back of the shell.
OEM Fob PN	VIN-specific. Dealer can confirm; also sometimes printed inside the fob shell. Avoid guessing from listings.
Aftermarket Options	Refurbished OEM fobs; new aftermarket fobs that exactly match your FCC ID; shell-only cases; emergency key blades.
Battery Type	CR2032 or CR2450 depending on fob style—open yours to verify.
Programmable On-Board?	Yes, in many cases if you already have two working keys. If you have only one or none, you’ll need a locksmith/dealer scan tool.
Cuts Required?	Yes. Push-button models need the emergency key blade cut; turn-key models need the main blade cut/coded to your key code.

Step-by-step on-board programming

Important: Ford uses two different systems on the 2017 Explorer. Follow the path that matches your vehicle.

A) Intelligent Access (push-button start) — Add a third smart key if you have two working admin keys

If your Explorer starts with a Start/Stop button and you already have two working keys, you can add a new fob yourself using the backup (programming) slot in the center console. The exact slot location is shown in your owner’s manual; it’s typically inside the console or at the front of the console bin.

1. Close all doors. Have your two working keys and the new unprogrammed key ready.
2. Place Working Key 1 in the backup slot. Without pressing the brake, press the Start/Stop button once. Wait a few seconds, then remove the key.
3. Place Working Key 2 in the backup slot. Press the Start/Stop button once again (no brake). Wait a few seconds, then remove the key.
4. Place the new unprogrammed key in the backup slot. Press the Start/Stop button once (no brake). Watch the instrument cluster; it should confirm that the key is programmed (you may see “Key Programmed” or the locks may cycle). Remove the key.
5. Test: With the new fob in the vehicle, press the brake and Start/Stop to confirm the engine starts. Test lock/unlock and panic.

If the vehicle does not acknowledge the new key, repeat the sequence carefully. If it still fails, the fob may be the wrong FCC ID/part or the vehicle may require a scan-tool procedure due to a full key memory or module update.

B) Turn-key ignition (keyed cylinder) — Program remote functions and add a third transponder key (if equipped)

Remote buttons (lock/unlock/panic) — many trims support on-board programming:

1. Sit in the driver’s seat with all doors closed. Insert key and cycle from OFF to RUN (not start) 8 times within 10 seconds, ending in RUN. The door locks should cycle to confirm programming mode.
2. Press any button on each remote you want to program (including existing ones). The locks will cycle to confirm each one.
3. Turn the key to OFF to exit programming mode. Test all remotes.

Add a 3rd transponder key (engine immobilizer) if you already have two working chipped keys:

1. Insert Working Key A. Turn to RUN for 3 seconds, then OFF and remove.
2. Within 10 seconds, insert Working Key B. Turn to RUN for 3 seconds, then OFF and remove.
3. Within 20 seconds, insert the new unprogrammed key and turn to RUN. Wait for the security light to go off (or about 3–5 seconds), then turn OFF. The new key should now start the vehicle.

If you have only one or zero working keys, you’ll need a locksmith/dealer with a capable scan tool to add keys to PATS (immobilizer).

Battery replacement

Smart key (Intelligent Access):

1. Slide out the emergency key blade using the release.
2. Use a plastic pry tool at the seam to gently split the case.
3. Note the battery orientation. Replace with the same type (commonly CR2032 or CR2450—verify yours) without touching the faces.
4. Snap the case together, reinstall the blade, and test.

Standard remote or flip-key:

1. Use a coin/flat tool in the notch to separate the case.
2. Swap the coin cell (match the type/position), then reassemble and test.

Where to buy a replacement fob

• Dealer: OEM parts, guaranteed compatibility by VIN. Expect $220–$450 for a smart fob plus $60–$150 programming. Keyed remotes/keys are often less.
• Automotive locksmith: Usually lower total cost than dealer, mobile service available, and they can cut emergency blades. Expect $160–$350 total for most 2017 Explorer keys/fobs depending on type.
• Online (Amazon/eBay/parts retailers): Lowest part prices ($25–$120 for aftermarket; $60–$180 for refurbished OEM). Ensure the listing matches your exact FCC ID and supports your trim. You’ll still need cutting (blade) and possibly programming.

If on-board programming isn’t supported

• When you have fewer than two working keys: Ford’s PATS immobilizer requires a scan-tool procedure with security access. A dealer or qualified locksmith can do this. Budget $120–$220 for programming labor (plus the cost of the fob/key).
• Wrong FCC ID/part number: The Explorer is sensitive to part compatibility. Always match by FCC ID and OEM part number from your existing fob or via VIN look-up. Avoid “universal” listings.
• Immobilizer type (what’s inside): 2017 Explorer uses Ford’s 80-bit immobilizer. Turn-key versions use a chipped key; push-button versions use a proximity transponder inside the smart fob. Both require proper programming to start the engine.
• Cutting the blade: Push-button fobs include an emergency key that must be cut to your locks; turn-key models require the main blade cut. A locksmith can cut by key code from your VIN, or by decoding an existing key.
• Typical totals if you have zero keys: Smart key $260–$550 all-in (part+programming+blade cut). Turn-key key+remote $180–$360.

Have your VIN handy and, if possible, photos of your existing fob’s labels so a pro can match the FCC ID and OEM part number precisely.

Find a mobile locksmith or shop on Repairius.