2018 Ford Explorer Fuse Box Diagram & Amperage

Quick Answer

The 2018 Ford Explorer features three main fuse box locations: under the hood (engine compartment), inside the cabin (passenger compartment), and in the cargo area.

Under-Hood Fuse Box (Battery Junction Box)

This fuse box is located in the engine compartment, typically near the battery on the driver's side. It houses fuses and relays for critical engine functions, lighting, and other high-current accessories.

Common Relays in this Box:

• R1: Fuel Pump Relay
• R2: Starter Relay
• R3: PCM Relay
• R4: Cooling Fan Relay
• R5: A/C Clutch Relay

Passenger Compartment Fuse Box (Smart Junction Box)

This fuse box is located on the passenger side kick panel, typically behind a removable cover. It controls various interior electrical components and accessories.

Cargo Area Fuse Box (Rear Power Distribution Box)

This fuse box is located in the cargo area, often behind a trim panel on the driver's side. It manages power for rear accessories, trailer connections, and other cargo-specific components.

How to Test a Fuse

Testing a fuse is a simple process that can help diagnose electrical issues. You will need a fuse puller (usually found in one of the fuse boxes) and a multimeter or a fuse tester.

1. Safety First: Always turn off the ignition and any affected electrical components before working with fuses. If you're working on the under-hood fuse box, you might consider disconnecting the negative battery terminal, though this may erase some vehicle memory settings.
2. Locate the Fuse: Refer to the corresponding fuse box diagram (either the one provided here or, more importantly, the diagram printed on the inside of your fuse box cover) to identify the fuse you suspect is blown.
3. Remove the Fuse: Use the fuse puller to carefully remove the fuse from its slot. Never use metal tools like pliers or screwdrivers, as this can damage the fuse box or cause a short circuit.
4. Visually Inspect: Many fuses (especially mini and ATO blade fuses) have a visible wire inside. If this wire is broken or melted, the fuse is blown. However, some fuses (like Maxi fuses) have an enclosed element, making visual inspection difficult.
5. Test with a Multimeter: Set your multimeter to the continuity setting (often indicated by a speaker icon). Touch one probe to each metal blade of the fuse. A good fuse will show continuity (the multimeter will beep or display a very low resistance reading). A blown fuse will show no continuity (no beep or an "OL" reading).
6. Test with a Fuse Tester: A dedicated fuse tester is even simpler. Insert the fuse into the tester. If the light on the tester illuminates, the fuse is good. If it doesn't, the fuse is blown.
7. Replace the Fuse: If the fuse is blown, replace it with a new fuse of the exact same amperage rating and type. Using a fuse with a higher amperage rating can lead to serious electrical damage or even fire, as it allows too much current to flow through a circuit designed for less.

Common Blown Fuses on This Vehicle

While any fuse can blow, some are more prone to failure due to the demands placed on their circuits or common accessory usage. On the 2018 Ford Explorer, here are a few common contenders:

• Cigar Lighter/12V Outlets (Passenger Compartment F2 or F15): These fuses often blow due to overcurrent from charging multiple devices, using high-power accessories like air compressors or portable vacuums, or a faulty device plugging into the outlet. If your phone charger suddenly stops working, this is a good place to start.
• Trailer Tow Fuses (Cargo Area F1, F2 or Under-Hood F19): If you frequently tow or connect a trailer, these fuses can be susceptible to blowing, especially if there's a short in the trailer's wiring or if the trailer draws more power than the circuit is designed for. If your trailer lights or brakes aren't working, check these first.
• Blower Motor (Under-Hood F8): If your climate control fan suddenly stops working on all speeds, this fuse is a prime suspect. A failing blower motor or obstructions can cause it to draw too much current and blow the fuse.
• Radio/Infotainment (Passenger Compartment F1): While less common, issues with aftermarket radio installations or internal shorts within the infotainment system can lead to this fuse blowing. If your radio is completely dead, this is a good starting point.

Remember, if a fuse blows repeatedly, there's likely an underlying issue with the circuit or component it protects. Simply replacing the fuse without addressing the root cause will only lead to further frustration.

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