2016 Honda CR-V Bulb Sizes (Headlight, Tail, Fog)

As an ASE-certified master technician, I regularly see the 2016 Honda CR-V roll into the shop for routine maintenance, including lighting replacements. The fourth-generation facelift (2015-2016) brought a refreshed front fascia and some modernized lighting elements, including halogen projectors for the low beams and integrated LED daytime running lights (DRLs) on higher trim levels like the Touring.

If you are looking to replace a burnt-out bulb or upgrade your factory halogens to LEDs, this comprehensive guide will give you the exact bulb sizes you need for your 2016 Honda CR-V.

Quick reference

Here is the quick reference chart for the 2016 Honda CR-V bulb sizes. Note: Always verify your specific trim level, as the Touring model features integrated LED daytime running lights and different tail light assemblies.

LED vs halogen upgrade considerations

Upgrading your 2016 CR-V’s halogen bulbs to LEDs can drastically improve nighttime visibility and modernize the look of your SUV. However, there are a few important considerations:

• CANBUS Errors and Hyperflashing: The CR-V’s electrical system may not recognize the low power draw of LED turn signals, leading to rapid blinking (hyperflashing). You will need to install inline load resistors or purchase LED bulbs with built-in CANBUS anti-hyperflash technology for the 7440 turn signals.
• Projector Housings (Low Beams): The 2016 CR-V uses a projector housing for the H11 low beams. When upgrading to LED, ensure you purchase bulbs designed specifically for projector housings (often featuring a 360-degree LED chip layout) so the beam pattern remains focused and doesn't blind oncoming traffic.
• DRL / High Beam Shared Function: On LX, EX, and EX-L trims, the 9005 high beam bulb doubles as the daytime running light by running at a lower voltage. Many aftermarket LED bulbs will flicker or fail to turn on at this lower voltage. You may need a specific DRL-compatible LED or a decoder module.

How to replace each bulb

• Low Beam (H11): Accessible from under the hood. On the passenger side, you may need to move the coolant reservoir slightly. Twist the bulb counterclockwise, disconnect the harness, and swap it out. Do not touch the glass of the new halogen bulb!
• High Beam (9005): Located closer to the center grille. These twist out easily from the engine bay.
• Fog Light (H8): The easiest way to access the fog lights is from underneath the vehicle or by turning the wheel inwards, removing a few push-clips from the inner fender liner, and reaching behind the bumper.
• Front Turn Signal (7440NA): Located on the outer edge of the headlight assembly. Accessible under the hood, but space can be tight on the driver’s side near the battery.
• Rear Turn Signal & Reverse Lights: Open the liftgate and remove the two 8mm bolts securing the tail light housing. Carefully pull the assembly straight back to unseat the alignment pins. You can then twist out the 7440NA and 921 bulbs.
• Interior Dome/Map Lights: Use a plastic trim removal tool to gently pry the clear plastic lenses off. The 168 map lights pull straight out, while the DE3175 dome light is spring-loaded.

Common lighting issues for this generation

The 2015-2016 Honda CR-V is generally very reliable electrically, but technicians frequently see a few minor lighting quirks. The most common is premature burnout of the H11 halogen low beams. Because Honda utilizes a projector lens, excessive heat can sometimes build up in the housing. Upgrading to a high-quality, fan-cooled LED can mitigate this.

Additionally, the factory LED brake/tail light assemblies on this generation are non-serviceable. If a portion of the red LED tail light strip goes out, the entire assembly must be replaced, which is significantly more expensive than swapping a standard bulb.

If you are experiencing persistent electrical issues, flickering lights, or need help aligning new LED headlights, don't guess—get professional help. Find a trusted shop on Repairius.