2017 Honda CR-V — Bulb Sizes (Headlight, Tail, Fog)

Quick reference

Notes:

• Touring trim uses factory LED headlamps and LED DRL signature; individual LED elements are not serviceable—replace the assembly if failed.
• Sizes above reflect the most common U.S. market 2017 CR‑V configurations. Always confirm by visual check or owner’s manual/build sheet, as regional and mid‑year variations can exist.

LED vs halogen upgrade considerations

• Headlights (H11/9005): Quality LED retrofit bulbs can work in the halogen projector (low) and reflector (high) with proper beam control. Ensure a slim heat sink so the dust cap can reinstall. Some LED 9005 bulbs will not dim correctly for DRL; choose DRL‑compatible models or keep halogen for the high beam/DRL on LX/EX/EX‑L.
• CANBUS/bulb-out warnings: The 2017 CR‑V is generally tolerant, but turn signals will hyperflash with low‑draw LEDs. Use 6–8 Ω load resistors per corner or an LED‑compatible flasher/BCM programming if available.
• Front/rear turns (7440A): If upgrading to LED, pick amber LEDs with proper polarity and add resistors to prevent hyperflash. Avoid high‑watt resistors contacting plastic—mount to metal.
• Brake/tail (7443): Use dual‑intensity LEDs designed for 7443. Verify brightness does not wash out the turn signal in shared housings.
• Fog (H11): LED upgrades are straightforward; look for focused emitters that mimic halogen filament position to avoid glare.
• Interior (194, 31mm): No CANBUS issues. Choose warm white for an OEM look or 6000K for a crisp white.

How to replace each bulb

• Low beam (H11): Turn the wheel inward, remove a few clips from the fender liner, reach behind the projector, twist the H11 socket counter‑clockwise, swap bulb, avoid touching glass, and reinstall the dust cap.
• High beam/DRL (9005): Access behind the headlamp, twist to remove. If using LED, confirm the DRL still functions correctly before final reassembly.
• Fog light (H11): From below or through the wheel liner on EX+ trims, twist the socket out of the fog housing and replace.
• Front turn (7440A) and side marker (168/194): Access via the headlamp rear; twist the small socket for side marker or larger socket for turn signal. Ensure amber bulbs/LEDs are used up front.
• Rear turn (7440A), brake/tail (7443), rear side marker (168/194): Open the tailgate, remove the two screws securing the tail lamp, pull the assembly straight back, twist each socket out, and replace the bulb.
• Reverse (921): Access through the same tail lamp removal; the 921 is the clear bulb in the inner section.
• License plate (168/194): From the underside of the liftgate garnish, pop out the small lamp housings, twist the sockets, and swap bulbs.
• Interior map (194): Gently pry the lens at the notch, pull the wedge bulb straight out, insert new bulb.
• Dome (31mm festoon): Pry the dome lens, spring the festoon contacts apart, replace with a 31mm bulb. Test before snapping the lens back.

Common lighting issues for this generation

• Condensation in headlamps: Light fogging can be normal. Persistent moisture may indicate a compromised seal or missing dust cap—inspect caps and vents.
• Hyperflash after LED turn upgrades: Install proper load resistors or use LED‑ready modules to restore normal flash rate.
• Touring LED DRL/headlight failure: Rare, but the LED assembly is serviced as a unit. Check warranty/TSBs and confirm power/ground before replacement.
• Melted or darkened 7440/7443 sockets: Aged high‑watt bulbs can heat sockets. Inspect and replace discolored sockets and avoid over‑wattage bulbs.
• Dim license or map lights: Corrosion in small T10 sockets is common. Clean contacts and ensure correct polarity with LEDs.

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