2025 Honda CR-V Fuse Box Diagram & Amperage

Quick answer

The 2025 Honda CR-V has fuse boxes located in three primary locations: under the hood (engine compartment), under the dashboard (driver's side kick panel), and in the cargo area (rear of the vehicle).

Under-Hood Fuse Box

The under-hood fuse box contains fuses and relays for critical engine functions, lighting, and other high-current components. It is typically located on the driver's side of the engine bay, near the battery.

Common Relays in Under-Hood Box:

• Starter Relay: Engages the starter motor.
• Fuel Pump Relay: Powers the fuel pump.
• Main Relay (PGM-FI): Supplies power to the ECM/PCM and other engine components.
• Cooling Fan Relays: Control the engine cooling fans.
• A/C Clutch Relay: Engages the air conditioning compressor clutch.
• Headlight Relays: Control headlight operation (high/low beam).

Dashboard Fuse Box (Driver's Side Kick Panel)

This fuse box is typically located on the driver's side, behind a cover or panel near the kick panel or under the steering wheel. It houses fuses for various interior electrical components, accessories, and some body control modules.

Note on trim variations: Fuse numbers and circuits can vary slightly between CR-V trim levels (e.g., LX, EX, EX-L, Sport, Touring, Hybrid). Always refer to the specific fuse diagram printed on the inside of your fuse box cover or in your owner's manual for the most accurate information.

Cargo Area Fuse Box

Some 2025 Honda CR-V models, especially those with advanced cargo features or a hybrid powertrain, may include a fuse box in the rear cargo area. This often covers rear accessories, power outlets, and trailer-related circuits. It's typically located behind a removable panel on one of the side walls of the cargo area.

Note: Not all CR-V models will have a dedicated fuse box in the cargo area. If your vehicle doesn't have one, these circuits will likely be found in the dashboard fuse box.

How to test a fuse

Testing a fuse is a straightforward process. You will need a fuse puller (usually found in the under-hood fuse box lid) and a fuse tester or a multimeter.

1. Locate the fuse: Identify the suspected blown fuse using the fuse box diagram.
2. Turn off the ignition: Ensure the vehicle's ignition is off to prevent electrical surges.
3. Remove the fuse: Use the fuse puller to carefully extract the fuse.
4. Visually inspect: Hold the fuse up to the light. If the metal wire or strip inside is broken or melted, the fuse is blown.
5. Use a fuse tester/multimeter: If a visual inspection isn't clear, insert the fuse into a fuse tester (if it's a self-testing type) or use a multimeter set to continuity mode. Touch the probes to the two metal prongs of the fuse. A good fuse will show continuity. If there's no continuity, the fuse is blown.
6. Replace with the correct rating: Always replace a blown fuse with a new one of the exact same amperage rating, color, and type. Using a fuse with a higher rating can lead to serious electrical damage or fire.

Common blown fuses on this vehicle

While fuses can blow for various reasons, some are more common than others due to the frequent use or specific loads on their circuits. If you encounter an electrical issue, start by checking these fuses first:

• Cigar Lighter / 12V Power Outlets (Dashboard Fuse Box, Fuse #5, 15A Blue): Often blow due to charging multiple devices, using high-power accessories, or short circuits from foreign objects in the outlet. If your phone charger suddenly stops working, this is the first place to check.
• Radio / Infotainment System (Dashboard Fuse Box, Fuse #1, 10A Red): If your radio, touchscreen, or navigation system suddenly goes blank, this fuse is a prime suspect. It can blow due to electrical spikes or a fault within the system.
• Blower Motor (Dashboard Fuse Box, Fuse #16, 20A Yellow / Under-Hood Fuse Box, Fuse #9, 40A Green): If your cabin fan stops working entirely, especially after running on high, check both the cabin (lower amperage, for accessory operation) and under-hood (higher amperage, for the main motor) blower motor fuses. A failing blower motor can draw too much current and pop the fuse.
• Headlights (Under-Hood Fuse Box, Fuses #1, #2, #11, #12 - 20A Yellow): If one or both of your headlights suddenly stop working, check these fuses. While bulbs can burn out, a blown fuse can affect an entire circuit.
• Brake Lights (Dashboard Fuse Box, Fuse #12, 10A Red): If your brake lights aren't illuminating when you press the pedal, first check this fuse. A faulty brake light switch can also be a culprit, but the fuse is a quick check.
• Fuel Pump (Under-Hood Fuse Box, Fuse #4, 15A Blue): If your CR-V cranks but won't start, and you don't hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key, this fuse is a critical component to check. A blown fuel pump fuse means the pump isn't getting power.

After checking the fuse, always investigate the root cause of why it blew. A recurring blown fuse usually indicates a deeper electrical issue, such as a short circuit in the wiring or a failing component drawing excessive current.

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